prepping 100+ drawer side parts, keeping flat.

[jteneyck]

I just finished a pantry cabinet with 5 pull out draws. After I cut them to rough size I put 2 coats of Arm R Seal. When I was ready I cut my half blind dovetails on all of them (front & back) and then cut all the grooves for the bottom. I put a final coat after assembly. No issues so far. Plus, glue cleanup was a breeze since I had the 2 coats of Arm R Seal on. 
My $.02.

Darned clever, Mike.  

John

[Mike 55]

Darned clever, Mike.  

John

Thanks, but if I'm so clever why did the poplar door style bow on me! I asked that a few days ago. I'm planning on doing a dado and insert a spine to see if that takes it out.

[jteneyck]

Thanks, but if I'm so clever why did the poplar door style bow on me! I asked that a few days ago. I'm planning on doing a dado and insert a spine to see if that takes it out.

Because it wasn't a equilibrium with your shop, IIRC.  There's clever and then there's not so clever.  It's hard to stay on the clever side all of the time.  

Good luck on the spline insert.  My guess is it's a waste of time.  But I'm not clever all of the time either, so maybe it will work.   

John

[KC]

In Texas I never had a problem working kiln dried lumber from the retailer immediately after I got it home.  Based on the three times I've done some actually work here in Nebraska, I'm gonna have to learn the right way.  

[mound]

Thanks all!  Right, already to final size, don't want them to move any more before I can get to actually assembling them. That roll of plastic wrap somebody showed is exactly what I had in mind, just wrapping the stack..

Flat stacking them "dense stack" as John called it is what I ended up doing.. Everything stacked flat, no faces exposed, weighted plywood on top.. edges and ends are exposed. Haven't cut grooves yet, but I suppose I'll just unstack then restack once I do so.

I had thought about pre-finishing them at that stage where they're done at final dimensions except length. I suppose I still might!

[mound]

Thanks, but if I'm so clever why did the poplar door style bow on me! I asked that a few days ago. I'm planning on doing a dado and insert a spine to see if that takes it out.

Just found my way over to your warped door thread via this thread.  Timely info for me! I have one long/tall F&P "door" to make, but it won't be a free floating door, it's the face for a tall pull out pantry, so I have the benefit of being able to screw the whole thing to the inner carcass to make sure it'll stay flat.

[Rob Young]

I had thought about pre-finishing them at that stage where they're done at final dimensions except length. I suppose I still might!

Sometimes prefinishing and stacking too soon is a bad thing. DAMHIKT.

[mound]

Sometimes prefinishing and stacking too soon is a bad thing. DAMHIKT.

oh boy! I think I can picture it

[ianab]

The thing with plastic wrapping is that the total amount of water in the "bag" doesn't change. If the wood is at say 8%, and you can't add or remove any, then the wood stays at 8%. There is no "extra" moisture to worry about. Moisture in the air trapped in the bag is so small you can ignore it. 100lb of wood at 8% has about 8 pounds of water, the air in the whole room has maybe an ounce. The wood will absorb that moisture, and now it's at 8.05% MC. To move the MC of the wood to 9% takes a whole pound of water, like open the bag and pour it in a cupful. Even then, next day it will be gone, soaked up by the now 9% wood. 

If you sticker your 8% wood in a climate controlled room with ~8% EMC, then the same thing, If you flat stack 8% wood in an 8% room, again, nothing happens. 

Now if you have wood with some random MC, and it dries out more (or even gains moisture because it's a rainy day), THEN it moves. 

Where I live EMC is more like 14%, but you can stuff a chunk of 14% wood in a ziplock bag, and exactly nothing happens to it. Don't try this with a ~30+% chunk, it will grow a whole new life-form. MC will still be 30% though.