About 10 years ago I built the workbench in SN#84 and I never took the time to level the top (approx. 27 X 92). So I've started to try to level the thing with a #7 but I'm having trouble getting a ribbon, I get small shavings. Dido with a #4.
I'm not an expert with hand planes, I only use them when I have to.
2 questions:
1. Are they not set properly?
2. When using the #7, do I make 1 long run along the entire length of the top?
Jim, What I normally do is plane at an angle - so for example, start at the front right side, and plane at a 45 degree ( more or less ) towards the left rear. I usually use a straight edge to see where the high spots are , mark them in chalk with a circle, then use a 6 ( I normally use the 7 for jointing ) to plane off the high spots, again by planing at an angle. Often I will reverse and plane in the opposite direction, or change from a 45 degree angle, to directly across the grain, or anything in between.
Not sure what you mean by ribbon. If you mean continuous shaving - no, you won't get that until the area you are planing is flat. Once you get that, move a little to one side or the other.
Another technique is to make chalk or pencil lines across the entire top, then start planing on the diagonal. Once all the marks are done in one area, it is flat, so long as you can see a chalk or pencil line, that is a low point. Again, you want to keep checking with a straight edge ( it doesn't have to be high precision ) and hold it in different orientations so you can find the high spots.
If the plane is not cutting at all, then there is something wrong, either the iron is not sharp, the cap iron is not tight to the blade which can cause shavings to stick under the blade, or there is something else wrong.
Have you tried planing a board you already know is flat? If you're not getting a continuous shaving from that, then you've not set up your plane properly. If you can get a continuous shaving, then Barry's suggestion that the workbench isn't flat yet is why you're getting smaller shavings. It'll only plane the high spots until you get flat. Another possible reason is if your blade has a significant camber. Only a smaller projection of the blade will cut, which leaves narrower shavings. Also, make sure you're planing downhill so you're not getting chipout. Reverse the direction you're planing to see if you get better results.
Thanks Barry & Al. I'm certain it's not flat yet, I just started on the flattening.
I was just concerned that I wasn't getting a continuous thin ribbon while plaining and I wasn't aware that since the top isn't flat yet I'll only get shavings.
Lots of good information here.
Barry. Didn't you build Lonnie Bird's secretary a few years ago?
(03-21-2022, 03:16 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: About 10 years ago I built the workbench in SN#84 and I never took the time to level the top (approx. 27 X 92). So I've started to try to level the thing with a #7 but I'm having trouble getting a ribbon, I get small shavings. Dido with a #4.
I'm not an expert with hand planes, I only use them when I have to.
2 questions:
1. Are they not set properly?
2. When using the #7, do I make 1 long run along the entire length of the top?
Thanks for help
Jim
If the bench isn't flat, especially if there are heavy planer scallops, you will get a tickity-tickty-tick sound from the #7 as it skims along. Eventually things will come down.
But it would be faster to traverse directly across with a rank sent #5, #5-1/2 or #6 then diagonal then long ways. If you do traverse across at 90*, zip the plane down the far corner along the edge where you'll be exiting so that you don't spelch (splinter) the exit edge.
Stopping periodically to check for twist, bow, cup with winding sticks and a straight edge.
About the 30 minute mark in this video C.S. works on flattening the slab.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
Jim, yes I did. IIRC, you helped me with an error that was in the drawings about the gallery, though I forgot what the problem was. It is not a direct copy, I made a few changes, and I think I changed the overall size, but it came out pretty well.
(03-22-2022, 06:59 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Jim, yes I did. IIRC, you helped me with an error that was in the drawings about the gallery, though I forgot what the problem was. It is not a direct copy, I made a few changes, and I think I changed the overall size, but it came out pretty well.
Looks great.
After 9 years I'm still working on mine! I have the desk portion done, although I am going to remake the drop down desk. It turned out lousy. Then I have to complete the book case. It keeps getting pushed to the back burner.
(03-22-2022, 05:07 PM)Rob Young Wrote: If the bench isn't flat, especially if there are heavy planer scallops, you will get a tickity-tickty-tick sound from the #7 as it skims along. Eventually things will come down.
But it would be faster to traverse directly across with a rank sent #5, #5-1/2 or #6 then diagonal then long ways. If you do traverse across at 90*, zip the plane down the far corner along the edge where you'll be exiting so that you don't spelch (splinter) the exit edge.
Stopping periodically to check for twist, bow, cup with winding sticks and a straight edge.
About the 30 minute mark in this video C.S. works on flattening the slab.
Thanks Rob, the video helped and I will also use your suggestions. As far as planes go, I only have the #7, #4 & #3. But I should be able to get the job done with those. I think!
(03-23-2022, 08:54 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: Thanks Rob, the video helped and I will also use your suggestions. As far as planes go, I only have the #7, #4 & #3. But I should be able to get the job done with those. I think!
Jim
You can certainly traverse with a #7 but, yes, it will take a few more strokes. Biggest thing is to not rush the job.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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I have the desk portion done, although I am going to remake the drop down desk. It turned out lousy. Then I have to complete the book case. It keeps getting pushed to the back burner.