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I have a set of Shapton Pro waterstones that I have been using for several years. They were great up until recently, but they just don't seem to cut as well as they used to. I have lapped them but they still don't seem to function like I think they should. I seem to recall someone talking about "deglazing" them to bring them back, but I can't find anything on that. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get them working as well as they should? TIA!!
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Dave, if you lapped them on something coarse, that should have deglazed them.
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Thanks!! I have been using an Atoma 400 plate. I think I'll try the 140 grit and see if that corrects it.
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Have you seen using something other than water as a lubricant?
It's all wood.
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Is it possible to post a pic of them? It's possible the binder to abrasive ratio has changed, but that would be rare. Have you changed how long you soak them prior to use or do you just spritz them and go? Nortons really need to be soaked prior to use. If you've been using soapy water during sharpening, this could also reduce the effectiveness of the stone. Too much soap equals too much lubrication and it'll affect how the tool contacts the abrasive. It's OK to clean them using soapy water, but the general rule if using dish detergent to aid in clearing out swarf is one drop to your water.
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Allan Hill
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I use Norton’s and use fine drywall screen on mine. IDK if this would be an idea for your Shapton’s or not?
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(03-15-2023, 10:05 AM)DaveParkis Wrote: I have a set of Shapton Pro waterstones that I have been using for several years. They were great up until recently, but they just don't seem to cut as well as they used to. I have lapped them but they still don't seem to function like I think they should. I seem to recall someone talking about "deglazing" them to bring them back, but I can't find anything on that. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get them working as well as they should? TIA!!
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Are you using a slurry stone prior to sharpening?
from google:
A slurry stone is a stone with which you rub on your hone to create "slurry" or a milky liquid on the top of your hone, which helps some hones cut more effectively. These stones are typically referred to as "slurry stones" for European stones, and as "Nagura Stones" for Japanese stones, and they are actually different. A slurry stone is a stone made from the same material of the hone, in the same grit, and will look identical to the hone--basically a small little block of hone. By rubbing the slurry stone on the hone--the two identical materials abrade one another and create a milky abrasive liquid, and lift the cutting agents from the hone and the slurry stone. On the other hand, Japanese Nagura stones are actually a different grit, and for that matter a different material all together. Nagura stones are typically white (but come in varying colors and grades) and their purpose is to usually make the hone cut finer/create a finer polish on the edge, however in some rare instances Nagura stones will make the hone more abrasive.
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(03-15-2023, 10:05 AM)DaveParkis Wrote: I have a set of Shapton Pro waterstones that I have been using for several years. They were great up until recently, but they just don't seem to cut as well as they used to. I have lapped them but they still don't seem to function like I think they should. I seem to recall someone talking about "deglazing" them to bring them back, but I can't find anything on that. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get them working as well as they should? TIA!!
This is strange because I have a Chinese waterstone (the colorful double sided one that you can generally find on eBay). A white and red sided (800 - 2000 grit). The white one cuts very fast but abrades quickly. I lap it every week with my DMT 250 grit stone. I am at halfway but it still cuts fast. Maybe the inner part of your stone is not the same as the outer, it got pressed together too much or I don't know.
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+1 on the Nagura stone. Really needed on 8000 grit.
