(07-06-2023, 09:18 AM)GaryMc Wrote: Yep, just says remove shaft bolt and "slip the wheel off" to get access to the belt. Will try again today after another Blaster treatment.
Well, I got the wheel off! I fashioned a puller using a bolt and T-nut through a length of hardwood which, when clamped to the wheel spokes, pushed the bolt head against the shaft. After about an inch of removal, I noticed that the pulley (with belt still attached) was coming along also. Took the belt off the motor pulley and Voila! the wheel with pulley and hanging belt slid right off.
So the manual is wrong. It says slide the wheel off THEN remove the belt from the motor pulley - it needs to be the other way around or the tension of the attached belt prevents the wheel from coming off easily.
Now on to replacing the tire using the suggestions provided!
When I raced bicycles, my best wheels had silk sew-ups.
They needed to be tight and were glued on.
The way to install those was to hold the wheel vertically on the ground and starting at the top, push the tire on sliding your hands down each side and using your hands to keep the tire from rolling off as you go.
At the last part, at the bottom, you pull the tire a bit past the rim and pop it on.
I think this would be the same technique for installing your tire.
I’ve done hundreds of tire changes this way as I also worked as a mechanic.
Gary
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(07-07-2023, 09:50 AM)Gary G™ Wrote: When I raced bicycles, my best wheels had silk sew-ups.
They needed to be tight and were glued on.
The way to install those was to hold the wheel vertically on the ground and starting at the top, push the tire on sliding your hands down each side and using your hands to keep the tire from rolling off as you go.
At the last part, at the bottom, you pull the tire a bit past the rim and pop it on.
I think this would be the same technique for installing your tire.
I’ve done hundreds of tire changes this way as I also worked as a mechanic.
Well I got 'er done! Combination of VERY hot (near boiling) water, four clamps put on in quick succession with tension applied between each one, then the tire irons to pry the last part on. Then remounting the wheel - not easy in the cramped space to lift the HEAVY thing and get it on the hidden-from-view shaft - but it worked. Thanks to all for the ideas.
(07-07-2023, 07:16 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Glad you got it done. Thanks for posting your method, it may help the next person with the same issue.
So it turned out, I was the next person. Was cutting with my Grizzly G0513x2 and the blade moved forward past the guides and the saw started making a weird noise - shut it off, and the upper tire had started to come off the upper wheel. Ordered new tires from Grizzly, based on the above , I knew it could be tough to get it on. I took off the wheel, supported it with blocks and clamped it to a work table. Steamed the new blade at 180F for about 15 minutes, got some clamps and screwdrivers ready. When it was ready, I used some heat resistant gloves, put it on the wheel, put F clamps on at 9 and 3, then tightened them, then used screw drivers and a similar instruments of destruction - it took me 2 tries, but got it on. If it weren't for the post, I probably would have tried a less studied approach, and would have struggled. The chalk marks on the wheel are from balancing as described by Bob Vaughan, though I used super magnets as weights.
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Will try again today after another Blaster treatment.
