Maple top issue

[iublue]

My brother brought down two maple work bench tops and wanted me to refinish them.
I took them to a local wood supplier and had them run them through their wide belt sander.  SO much easier than trying to do it by hand AND it flattens them out!
It looks like there might have been a vise mounted at one time and it appears oil has seep into the wood.

Do I need to seal that some how?  If yes, what should I use?

I plan on spraying General Finishes Enduro as a top coat.

Thanks,

Toney

[Willyou]

Are these going to continue in use as work bench tops? If so, why bother refinishing?
If they are going to be repurposed, then you will probably want to plug the holes with dowels. You will likely never get the oil stain out, but you can probably prep them for the Enduro by applying a coat of shellac first.
If you are concerned about the appearance of the oil stains, you might be able to blend it in by applying a coat or two of danish oil before the Enduro. Be sure to allow it to completely cure first.

[iublue]

Are these going to continue in use as work bench tops? If so, why bother refinishing?
If they are going to be repurposed, then you will probably want to plug the holes with dowels. You will likely never get the oil stain out, but you can probably prep them for the Enduro by applying a coat of shellac first.
If you are concerned about the appearance of the oil stains, you might be able to blend it in by applying a coat or two of danish oil before the Enduro. Be sure to allow it to completely cure first.

Thanks for the reply.
I am doing three tops.  Two for my brother and one for me.  The one for me I am not putting a finish on but my brother wants his finished!  I don't understand but hey that's what he wants!
I wondered about shellac but just didn't know if the oil (if that is what it is) would cause a problem for shellac too.

Toney

[Willyou]

Since the surface has been sanded, most of the oil should be gone. You may be able to remove some of the rremaining oil by saturating the area with a solvent like paint thinner and scrub it out with a stiff brush and or paper towels. I think (others may correct me) that shellac will cover what is remaining. However, if you are going to use the top as a work bench top, you might consider using boiled linseed oil or danish oil. Either of these will be easier to repair and/or renew from time to time.

[jteneyck]

If you use EnduroVar you want to use dewaxed shellac only, like Sealcoat or rattle can.  Even then, I think GF says to only spray one light coat under EnduroVar.  But I agree with WillYou, I wouldn't use a film finish on a workbench.  It'll be slick as snail snot and it will get chipped and damaged in no time.  Danish oil or Rubio Monocoat would be a lot better for durability and ease of repair.  Even better, skin it with a sheet of Masonite.  When it gets all beat up, peel it off and replace for a brand new work surface.  May not look as pretty, but it's very practical.  

John

[iublue]

If you use EnduroVar you want to use dewaxed shellac only, like Sealcoat or rattle can.  Even then, I think GF says to only spray one light coat under EnduroVar.  But I agree with WillYou, I wouldn't use a film finish on a workbench.  It'll be slick as snail snot and it will get chipped and damaged in no time.  Danish oil or Rubio Monocoat would be a lot better for durability and ease of repair.  Even better, skin it with a sheet of Masonite.  When it gets all beat up, peel it off and replace for a brand new work surface.  May not look as pretty, but it's very practical.  

John

John,
 
I am using Enduro not EnduroVar but I agree with the rest of it.

I might bring it up to Brother but he wanted it finished and he is usually not flexible.
 

Thanks,

Toney

[jteneyck]

John,
 
I am using Enduro not EnduroVar but I agree with the rest of it.

I might bring it up to Brother but he wanted it finished and he is usually not flexible.
 

Thanks,

Toney

Hey Toney.  Unless something has changed, Enduro is just the general name for a group of finishes, such as EnduroVar, Enduro Clear Poly, Enduro Pre Cat Lacquer, etc.  Regardless, you can apply any of them over a light coat of dewaxed shellac.  I've even used Zinsser amber shellac, which has wax in it, and then sprayed a coat of Sealcoat (dewaxed) over the that, then Enduro Clear Poly, without problems for over 5 years now.  

Oh, a brother who knows what he wants, regardless.  I have one of those, too.  

John

[Willyou]

Back to the oil stains in/on the wood; I'm not really sure if that presents any adhesion issues or not. My theory is that linseed or danish oil, because it is an oil, might be more compatible. If fully cured, you can put dewaxed shellac over the danish or linseed olls and then apply most any other film finish over that. I have used danish oil for a first coat on a number of projects and it works well. If your final coat is an oil based product, you don't even need the shellac. The question is adhesion over the existing oil stains.

[rwe2156]

I'd spray it with oil based poly and forget the shellac.

When he picks it up, be sure to tell him you warned him and not to complain when it looks like #$%^ in a year.

Also, if he's using hand tools, tell him to be sure to always use a backer board.