07-03-2016, 08:08 PM
I'm making some wainscot for a small bathroom. I thought I'd show you the basic process I used.
Here is one of the frames ready to assemble.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7372/27455318013_4b47d6e046_z.jpg)
And here is a shot showing the parts.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7427/27455318543_54cafc894a_z.jpg)
I used jack miters to fit the molded parts together. The advantage is you can use any profile you want w/o having to buy a set of cope and sticking cutters; the disadvantage is it takes longer.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7229/27455318003_1e64615200_z.jpg)
I made the 45° cuts with my RAS and removed the material in between with a dado blade on the TS.
On the back side I cut 1/2" x 1/2" rabbets for the 1/2" glued in plywood panels.
To make the joinery work I had to glue in small pieces to fill the gap between the end of the rails and muntins and mullions where they join the frame and each other. This is a little tedious but easier to me than routing out the rabbets and then having to chisel the corners square. Also, cutting the rabbets on the TS with a dado blade is fast and dust free, unlike using a router. Whatever works for you is how you should do it.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7359/28069651005_da1df52951_z.jpg)
Because the plywood panels are glued in I decided that pocket screws would be sufficient to join the frames together. If I were to make solid wood, floating panels, I would have used loose tenons to join everything together.
The four frames I need are all together. Now I just have to cut the plywood to size and glue it in.
FYI, these will be painted so I was able to use some maple I was likely never going to use for a clear finish.
John
Here is one of the frames ready to assemble.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7372/27455318013_4b47d6e046_z.jpg)
And here is a shot showing the parts.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7427/27455318543_54cafc894a_z.jpg)
I used jack miters to fit the molded parts together. The advantage is you can use any profile you want w/o having to buy a set of cope and sticking cutters; the disadvantage is it takes longer.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7229/27455318003_1e64615200_z.jpg)
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7264/27455318263_b73c94001a_z.jpg)
I made the 45° cuts with my RAS and removed the material in between with a dado blade on the TS.
On the back side I cut 1/2" x 1/2" rabbets for the 1/2" glued in plywood panels.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7415/27455317993_3f00b59f73_z.jpg)
To make the joinery work I had to glue in small pieces to fill the gap between the end of the rails and muntins and mullions where they join the frame and each other. This is a little tedious but easier to me than routing out the rabbets and then having to chisel the corners square. Also, cutting the rabbets on the TS with a dado blade is fast and dust free, unlike using a router. Whatever works for you is how you should do it.
![](/ssl_proxy.php?url=/ssl_proxy.php?url=https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7359/28069651005_da1df52951_z.jpg)
Because the plywood panels are glued in I decided that pocket screws would be sufficient to join the frames together. If I were to make solid wood, floating panels, I would have used loose tenons to join everything together.
The four frames I need are all together. Now I just have to cut the plywood to size and glue it in.
FYI, these will be painted so I was able to use some maple I was likely never going to use for a clear finish.
John