Ok...sharpening jigs

[Blacky's Boy]

Phil S. said:

---

Jim-

How about a narrow blade like the LV spokeshave-



or a similar blade with tangs at 90° to the blade?

Phil

---

+1

My LV low angle spoke shave blade is a more than bit tricky to free hand sharpen. I can do it but like I said, it's a PITA.

[Boatman53]

Dom I'm going to cut a piece of wood to the dimentions given earlier and see it it will hold it. Unless someone can part with a blade for a week and send it to me.
Jim

[Boatman53]

So a couple of posts back Derek gave me a challange for a mortise chisel jig.... Well here you are Derek.



This is an old pig sticker I bought from SteveF last year and the as bought condition of the edge.



A few minutes with the diamond stone and a polish on a water stone and it now looks like this.

[/URL]

And for fun I thought I'd polish up a micro bevel on a brand new LN.

[/URL]

I'm not interested in going into business on these, but I might be willing to do a short run if there is interest and I can find parts to keep the costs reasonable. I can put up more photos tonight.
Jim

[blackhat]

[Steve Friedman]

Wow. That's impressive.

Steve

[Phil S.]

Jim -

It sounds like you're up for a challenge. Here's a few of my problem children -



You're already thinking about the LV low angle shave so I won't worry about that. I asked about blades with tangs earlier. This wooden shave has such a blade -



The total width is about 4" to the outside of the tangs while the cutting edge is about an inch less. The blade is 1/2" wide -



The tangs are about 1-1/2" long -



Right now I sharpen this by hand, straddling a stone setting on a block of wood to get clearance so the tangs don't hit the surface of the bench. The blade is pretty light so it is only suitable for fine work.

The other is a Millers Falls #1. I'm a bit buffaloed by this one and haven't tried to sharpen it yet. The blade is 2-1/8" long at its longest. The ends taper from the top to the bottom to more closely match the slope of the retaining screws -



The blade is curved with a diameter of roughly 3/4" in cross section as close as I can estimate it from the partial arc -



The cutting edge has a flat about 3/16" wide and I assume that is the face that needs to be sharpened, similar to the bevel on an out cannel gouge-



I can imagine holding that flat to a stone to polish it, but it seems it would be all too easy to slowly alter the angle of the bevel over time to the detriment of the cutting geometry.

Any thoughts?

[Boatman53]

Ok Phil... The wooden one should work as I've built it, the LV with studs closer together I would need to do a modification to fit that blade, but it would in no way detract from any other tool. I just don't have a blade so it's hard to just start cutting. I have one of those cigar type shave and have thought a bit about it. Mine is missing a handle so I was in no rush to sharpen. I'll see what I can come up with, I have some ideas.
Here is a photo of the individual pieces of the mortise jig.



Derek and I were talking in email about it and his concern was keeping or setting up the blade square to the holder. I found it very easy to visually line up the blade in the jig because it is a narrow holder and long so when one looks at the front and back it is easy to see if it is out of parallel. His suggestion was to mill a shallow "V" along that bronze pressure pad and use that for alignment. If I can figure out how to do that (I'm new it the milling machine and open to suggestions) I try and make one that way.
Thanks for all the help.
Jim

[Herebrooks]

Here's a shot of my insert plane. The blade is 2" wide, and very thin. Would be nice to find a good jig to sharpen these.
Bill

[Boatman53]

Here is what I came up with Phil. I doesn't use my jig but it's easy to make.
3/4" piece of wood a little saw cut and a few moment with a plane to round over the edge. The saw cut indexes the blade. I cut the sides down to fit the Eclipse guide. I marked the guide so I know where I was when it needs to be re sharpened. It took just a bit of figuring to find the right bevel. The guide is just a bit behind the pencil mark to polish a micro bevel.

Herebrooks do you have any dull blades you could send me? I think it will work but I'd love to try it.
















Jim

[blackhat]

This is getting better and better.