Taming a big slab

[jteneyck]

You may remember my post from a couple of months ago about using a router sled to flatten some walnut live edge slabs I'm using to make a kitchen island countertop. Here are the slabs after I had them flattened on both sides to about 1-7/8"



I rough cut them to width a couple of weeks ago and few days ago I jointed those edges and glued it up. It's roughly 39" wide at the narrow point and 60" long. Yesterday, I flattened it with yes, can you believe it, hand planes!



Mostly a number 5 Jack plane, because that's the largest I own, and then a little more with a #4. It actually went really well, even through the crazy crotch grain. As you can see, there is a fair amount of chips on the floor. The dark stuff you see on the slab is some epoxy to which I added a little Transtint dye to fill some cracks. I filled quite a few cracks and knot holes before I started flattening the slab; this was a second filling to a couple that needed a little more.

I have to meet with the guy I making this for to discuss how he wants the ends cut off; I'm thinking a gentle radius on at least one end and round the ends over somewhat, too, to sort of simulate the live edge look. It's going to take a few hours work yet before it's ready for finishing, but I"m happy that it glued up with nice tight joints and that I got the critical flattening step done w/o much issue.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to clean up the live edges? I peeled off as much of the bark as possible with a putty knife and a little more with a chisel, but there is still some. I wouldn't mind leaving it on if I can sand it smooth as it adds a nice color contrast to the white sapwood. What do you all do?

As for the finish, I'm thinking of leaving the sapwood as is and using BLO followed by Arm-R-Seal or Waterlox (which I've never used). Anyone have any better ideas?

John

[gMike]

You gave me a good idea about the radius on the ends. I've got a walnut slab ready to turn into a headboard and didn't quite know how to handle the ends. I think I'll go with a radius.

I used a router sled to flatten the slab. I still need to to finish sand it and finish it. I think I'm gonna use Libron Finishing Oil. I've never used it but my kid swears by it so I'll give it a try.

[JR1]

I've used a pressure washer (a small 600 psi one) to remove the bark. To pop the grain I'd use Polymerized Tung Oil as it cures much faster than regular Tung oil and I think looks better than BLO. I've been disappointed the few time I've used waterlox. Now that I've tried it I'd just use Arm-R-Seal as the topcoat.

[Steve N]

John, looks good.

As to the finish. I have used both seal a cell, and arm r seal a lot, and really like them as an out of the can product. Usually I mix my own though. At one point I was going to try Waterlox. I had never used it, and really didn't know much about it. Right about then this 2 piece article from WoodWorking magazine came out Steve Shanesy talked me out of it. Reference the lower page with the comparison testing they did. Again, this isn't based on personal experience, but with the Gen Finishes products, they weren't broken, so I didn't see the need to fix them. It will be interesting to see what other feedback there is on this part of it.

[iublue]

As for the finish, ask the customer. Do they want a mostly maintenance free finish, a film finish like GF Enduro or do they want to feel the wood like an oil finish but knowing that they will probably have to do more maintenance on it. I know for myself I would want a harder finish.

[DonJuvet]

I am against a radius end. It looks too unnatural.
Leave it somewhat random and accentuate the random as you grind it.
I use a 4 1\2" grinder and 36 grit to start. follow the shape and direction of the grain.
Follow around to the top and bottom a little with cracks and checks.
Let the flow of the wood guide you.
Think natural wear and erosion.
DO NOT THINK LIKE AN ENGINEER
Do this also on the actual live edge sides. Less aggressively.
Go thru the grits. 3, 80 on the grinder. 60, 120, 150... on the random.
Remove the bark. It will never sand smooth. (someone will correct me on this I'm sure)
Also think SNAG. Leave no sharps where a woman might slap you for ruining her dress

Hope I helped

[jteneyck]

I was hoping you would take a look and offer advise, Don. Much appreciated. I'll give it a try as you suggest but remember, I am an engineer so it's hard to set that aside and let the artistic juices flow without restraint.

I thought for sure you were going to say something like "That's not a big slab. Now this (insert picture of one of yours) is a BIG slab."

John

[jteneyck]

Thanks Steve. The second author has an interesting take on Seal-A-Cell. Seal-A-Cell is an oil/varnish blend and is applied first, not last as stated in the article, unless I misunderstood him. He also did not have very positive things to say about Waterlox which is very interesting as many folks over at Sawmill Creek rave about it as THE wiping varnish to use. But you are right about Arm-R-Seal; I've never had a bad result with it so maybe I should just stick with it. We'll see what the client has in mind.

John

[Ken Vick]

John, now you've done it. Michelle took one look at that slab and said that is exactly what she wants for the kitchen peninsula she is designing in her head. Great job of matching the grain of the slabs. It must be quite a load move about.

I used waterlox on the writing surface of the standup desk in our dining room if you want to see what the finish looks like. I put on several coats of gloss and then rubbed the surface out with pumice and rottenstone to a high satin finish. It gives a nice deep finish. It is a little work but nothing compared to hand planing the slab that you just did. I am not sure how durable it is for hard duty because my writing surface doesn't get much use but it is a beautiful surface if it has been rubbed out. Ken

[jteneyck]

I remember that desk, Ken, and it sure is beautiful. And do you remember those 12/4 thick slabs of red mulberry I showed you out on one of the drying racks. If you don't make a chair out of them they would make an awesome countertop. I don't know how long you'll need for the peninsula, but they are almost 10' long IIRC.

I almost called you to borrow one of your really swell large planes when I started flattening the slab, but it actually went pretty easily with my #5 jointer. I got a heck of an upper body workout though for a couple of hours. The calculated weight is only 87 lbs, but it feels like twice that to me. Either my my math or muscles are getting weak, or maybe both. In any case, when I get it all done, the guy I'm doing it for (the guy who gave me the WO logs) will carry it out of the basement with his son.

John