Posts: 131
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
What finish offers the best combination of popping the grain with the least amount of darkening. I've been suggested arm-R-seal or boiled linseed oil. Your suggestions?
Also need help with a clear top coat. I was told precat lacquer is what a lot of the pros use but unfortunately it's hard to find in my area. At least from what I can tell. What do u think of the clear poly from General finishes? I plan to spray
Posts: 12,884
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
This is curly maple with Arm-R-Seal semi gloss:
GF's Clear Poly or HP Poly would work well, too, though they won't have quite the same impact as Arm-R-Seal. And blonde shellac would be a good choice, too, as would lacquer, depending upon the intended use.
John
Posts: 131
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2009
Does arm-R-seal get significantly darker over time?
Would arm-R-seal, shellac, clear poly be a good combo?
Posts: 8,963
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2010
You can use
KUSMI SEED-LAC or Orange / AMBER SHELLAC 1 to 3 1# cut coats will not change the color much at all. If you are going to topcoat then John's suggestions are good and just use one coat of shellac. If it's not going to be hard use there is no need to topcoat so just use 3 coats of shellac. Test to see what you like on some scrap. If its really hard use take a look at the GF
General Finishes Water Based 2K Conversion Varnish . don't be put off by the review the guy didn't follow the instructions. I would not mess with lacquer or oil lacquer mixes (except for Arm-R-Seal) they aren't particularly durable or chemical resistant. I would not mess with the very light colored shellacs as they are treated with a bleach and as a result are brittle, they also don't bring out the grain as well as the naturally colored shellacs.
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Quodcumque potest manus tua facere instaner opere Ecclesiastes
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
you are aware that the effects of darkening are more environmental reactions (as in UV) than the finish itself...
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 8,963
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2010
Arm-R-Seal will not darken as it has UV inhibitors, but it will start flaking when the inhibitors wear out. A light sanding and a light coat will fix that¹. Don''t bother with a clear poly (or anything else over Arm-R-Seal) it is less durable than Arm-R-Seal, it is just a waste of time and money. GF HP has the best UV protection of any finish that GF offers and is more scratch resistant than the others although not as chemical resistant as Arm-R-Seal. I would expect Arm-R-Seal to last >>7 years unless in direct sunlight. GF HP is a good topcoat over shellac. It cures quickly and sprays easily. Arm-R-Seal doesn't spray well if at all and is slow to cure.
¹ All finishes will degrade over time as the UV inhibitors wear out. GF HP has a dual inhibitor system, one protects the wood and the other protect the finish.
homo homini lupus
"The best lack all conviction, while the worst are full of passionate intensity." Yeats
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Quodcumque potest manus tua facere instaner opere Ecclesiastes
Posts: 12,884
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
If you like the look of Arm-R-Seal there is no need to put anything over it and lots of good reasons not to. It is very durable. It will not darken over time. Joe has it right. Whatever change happens will be more due to the underlying wood reacting to UV light than aging of Arm-R-Seal.
I take it you want as much grain pop as you can get, and a light finish where both the wood and finish do not yellow or darken over time. The best recommendation I can offer for that is a coat of SealCoat shellac followed by GF's HP Poly. Personally, however, I would use Arm-R-Seal. The picture above is my reason why. I made those railings 6 or 7 years ago. I saw them about 2 years ago and they looked like new. Arm-R-Seal does not break down over time, as was suggested, unless maybe the piece is going to sit in direct sunlight every day. I don't have that problem where I live. It's as durable as any other interior varnish, and better than many.
John
Posts: 3,240
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2009
We just finished a quartersawn white oak chest where we popped the figure with amber shellac followed by laying down 5 coats of Arm-R-Seal...as a sidebar, we mixed up a 60/40 blend of semi-gloss poly/mineral spirits and wiped this on some scrap pieces....very pleased with the results...
Stupid is forever, ignorant can be transitory.
Posts: 7,902
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
I can't recommend a finish without knowing the intended purpose, what are you working on? Arm-R-Seal and linseed oil are both oil finishes and a poor choice for spraying. Spraying might not be your best bet depending on the project.
What are you building? Where will it live? What type of wood are you using?
RD
------------------------------------------------------------------
"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
Posts: 12,884
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
Oh good grief, I just realized the OP said he wanted to spray. You are right Richard, Arm-R-Seal is a poor choice for spraying. The over spray will make a huge mess.
John
