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http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-x-72-J...-Series/G0656PXhttp://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Jointe...ead/G0490XI need advice on what's the advantages between the wheels and levers to raise the tables on these jointers.I have a 6in jointer with wheels now and this hopefully will be my last purchase so I just wanted to see what the difference is.
Thanks
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The lever model shown is a parallogram bed - I personally would take that over a DT wedge model with hand wheels. I own a lever operated DJ30 and I think they work just fine.
Your last one is a 12" jointer you know that right
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
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First off either can adjust your jointer just fine, don't let anyone try to tell you otherwise. The Parallelogram jointer (stick model) auto aligns both tables to parralllel, and does it with a simple flick of the handle.
That will become a really big deal if you are frequently changing from a very thin amount cut off, to a bigger cut if you are hogging off stock. That and the Parallelogram jointer has a slightly longer infeed table. A little over a year ago I bought the G0490X, and I love it. Seeing that the prices are the same online right now, I'd always go with the Parallelogram model, if for no other reason than a longer table.
Compare them here The 6" model gives an explanation that the 8" one lacks.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I went out of my way to get a 6" with wheels. My 8" has leavers and i wouldn't go back. It is a personal choice though.
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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The main difference is not about the handle but the mechanism. As I never can afford to buy any new machines I have seen what problems various machine types tend to get after decades of use.
A n old style pedestal type jointer with four separate ways or a more modern paralellogram jointer seem to stay aligned a lot better than jointers with only one dovetailed way for each table. This because the table is supported at four points far apart.
A modern jointer with short dovetailed ways has essentially two points of suppost very close together. When a single dovetailed way gets a little bit worn the table starts to droop. The longer the table is in relation to the dovetail the more it will droop.
The only proper way to correct this is by scraping or grinding the ways. Both methods are both labouruious and requitrres a skilled machinist to do it.
Part timer living on the western coast of Finland. Not a native speaker of English
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OK, here's the thing: at the shop in my basement, I have a 40 year old 8" Delta, with wheels. It is simply great, with springs under the knives that permit a knife change very quickly. The jointer is big, heavy and a joy to use.
I also have a shop at my manufacturing plant (one of my indulgences!). At it I have the 6" parallelogram jointer than Steve mentioned earlier. I would not hesitate to recommend it for purchase, and I view it as one of the grand slams Grizzly has come out with. Both indeed & outfield tables adjust quickly and easily. The fence moves easily and retains square. This has a four blade head and about a month ago, I purchased a "Shelix" head (through Grizzly and on sale) for it, though I have not found the time to install it.
If I were looking for a new 6" or 8" jointer, I would buy this Grizzly version (As a point of reference, I did have a Powermatic 6" with wheels, that looked identical to the Jet, as both are owned by the same company. I did not care for the slop in the wheel adjustments on it).
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Tony Z said:
[blockquote]Coffee Man 2 said:
Thanks everyone I really appreciate the advise. Looks like it will be the parallogram table
I would also consider a Shelix head!
[/blockquote]
Seems both types of adjustment on their 8" jointers he posted links to, had the shellix head on both. Didn't actually ask, but my thought was he was already going there.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I have had the G0490 for a few years and it has been a very good performer. It is one of only two Asian made machines left in my shop as I upgrade, and unless I move to 12" I will stick with it. You should be pleased.
Doug