10" Table saw blade for Locking Rabbet joints (Flat)

[sawnuts]

I'm looking for some advice on a good blade for these joints.
I'd like a regular kerf (1/8") with a flat bottom.
I looked at a Freud LM72R010 which is advertised as a Rip blade. The joints I need to make may be rip but more than likely a crosscut.

Would this blade work?
Other recommendations?
I have a dado stack but I am not sure about just using one blade.
I'd like to get a dedicated 10" blade to do this?

Thanks

Mark

[JGrout]

you are not going to find much in the way of sawblades that crosscut a flat bottom.

[jteneyck]

I use a Freud full kerf 24 tooth rip blade (flat tooth) with a zero clearance insert when I do that and it works fine as long as you put a backer board against your work piece where the blade exists. That said, a combination tooth blade may cut more cleanly as it has both ATB and flat teeth on the same blade. Take a look at this link.

John

[fredhargis]

I know Forrest will sell you one, but it's special order (can't remember what they call it) and not cheap. I've needed one form time to time and still haven't pulled the trigger.

[Steve N]

jteneyck said:

---

I use a Freud full kerf 24 tooth rip blade (flat tooth) with a zero clearance insert when I do that and it works fine as long as you put a backer board against your work piece where the blade exists. That said, a combination tooth blade may cut more cleanly as it has both ATB and flat teeth on the same blade. Take a look at this link.

John

---

I'm with John, right here


For 1/8" I still make one pass on all pieces, then just bump the cut a nudge and run them again, so in effect I am just over 1/8" so it slides right in, and keeps from the sides clamping with even slight wood movement.

[sawnuts]

I may just go with a combination blade like the Freud LU84R011.
Never considered that one.

Mark

[museumguy]

I use an Amana blade, 10", 20 T, Euro Rip blade.

http://www.amanatool.com/products/saw-bl...inch-dia-x.html

[JGrout]

sawnuts said:

---

I may just go with a combination blade like the Freud LU84R011.
Never considered that one.

Mark

---

the combo blade will not leave a flat bottom cut:

one flat top ground tooth for each other four alternating bevel ground teeth.

and those tips protrude further than the FT tips

[Steve N]

JGrout said:

---

[blockquote]sawnuts said:

---

I may just go with a combination blade like the Freud LU84R011.
Never considered that one.

Mark

---

the combo blade will not leave a flat bottom cut:

one flat top ground tooth for each other four alternating bevel ground teeth.

and those tips protrude further than the FT tips

---

[/blockquote]


^^^^^^^THIS, needs to be a ripper like I posted, all teeth in same configuration. Any ATB gives you a snake bottom cut, sometimes microscopic, but it wiggles through just the same.


Freud LM72R010

[Steve N]

This pic shows several top grinds, we are talking ATB = bad, FTG Flat grind = good for flat bottom cuts. FTG's will be found on rippers.






Makes a lot less difference on complete through the thickness cuts. But on a partial thickness cut like you are making you completely leave behind the trench you create. Only FTG will make you a flat bottom cut. Theoretically any decent dado blade will do this also, however this isn't really the case as some cheap blades chipper teeth don't cut flat bottoms so well.