Help set up my router table, please?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I need to cut bridle joints in some table legs. I have an Incra table with a Bosche 1617 hanging under it.

The cut needs to be 1" deep, which is far too deep for a single pass. My problem is that I don't have a method for raising the bit without removing the router from the table, which throws off my fence set up.

Aside from buying a router lift that will attach to the top, I guess I'm out of luck, right? If that's the case, which router lift is the least painful to buy?

In the image, I'm using a piece of scrap to set up the fence.

[Alan S]

Get some 1/4" to 3/8" thick flat stock, and make a set of shims to put on the table.

These should be long and wide enough to run your stock on, have a cleat at the infeed end to keep them from moving, and a hole for the bit to stick through. The holes are offset so they will be aligned when stacked.

Set the bit to the final height, stack the shims, and make a series of cuts, removing a shim after each cut.

[packerguy®]

Cant you just reach under, unlock and adjust up and down. I have had craftsman routers (which were basically 1617 clones) and now the Hitachi M12VC which I do just that. I've never had a lift....and never ran into a situation where I wished I had one, and I have done a bunch of stuff where I had to do multiple depth passes.

Am I missing something?

[jteneyck]

Why can't you raise the router while it's in place? I have that same router in my router table and can raise/lower it easily. You can even raise/lower it from above the table, although you stilll need to unlock/lock it to do so. I'm guessing yours is trapped in a cabinet with no door? If so, I'd figure out how to get access to it.

John

[cams2705]

For cutting a full bridle joint on the router, you're asking a lot of a smaller router motor to remove a substantial amount of material. Additionally, it appears you have your router set-up to run in the wrong direction.

My recommendation would be to remove the bulk of your stock with the table saw using a dado blade leaving just enough for a final single run across your router to achieve the perfect joint. Then you only need a single height adjustment on the router table.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

The shims idea holds the most promise.

The router is encased so the DC will work better.

Thanks, gents.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

cams2705 said:

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For cutting a full bridle joint on the router, you're asking a lot of a smaller router motor to remove a substantial amount of material. Additionally, it appears you have your router set-up to run in the wrong direction.

My recommendation would be to remove the bulk of your stock with the table saw using a dado blade leaving just enough for a final single run across your router to achieve the perfect joint. Then you only need a single height adjustment on the router table.

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How do I deal with curved space left by the table saw? These joints are only 1" deep.

[Robert Adams]

I'm surprised with the number of replies that no one has mentioned that the feather board is running the wrong direction. You should be feeding from right to left so the bit is forcing the stock against the fence Instead of the feather board.

As to the lift I'm not familiar with that router. Does it not have a method for above the table height adjustment. My milwaukees triton and even all of my craftsman routers all have a method usually using a long hex wrench or a socket.
Even with the above the table adjustability I don't use it as you still need to unlock the router before adjustment so I just reach under there and unlock then adjust lock it back and cut.

The lifts are nice but imo not really needed anymore as its built Into routers now.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

It's been mentioned.

My router is more than a decade old. No means for raising it from above the table. Or so that I've found.

I've hardly used it; I need to attack the manual tomorrow.

[Robert Adams]

Well then since your only routing short sections and not full length stuff. How about putting some 1/2" ply on the router table to space the work piece up. You can clamp or double side tape it down. Then after the 1/2" do 1/4 then your final pass.