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Starrett recommends some procedures for bandsaw blade breakin. Is this just for metal cutting blades, or is the same true for wood cutting blades as well?
http://www.starrett.com/docs/saw-resourc...f?sfvrsn=2
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I've never had to break in a wood cutting blade. Only thing I do is hone the back edge and corners.
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Axl said:
I've never had to break in a wood cutting blade. Only thing I do is hone the back edge and corners.
I round the back edge on anything I cut a curve with, but not the resaw blade. I never heard of breaking in a BS blade before. That is why I asked. I spent 10 years in the meat plant. We never broke in the BS blades there either.
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Reading it I would say that entire page is about cutting metals.
"Easy-to-cut material such as carbon steel and aluminum:"
"Hard-to-cut materials such as nickel-based alloys like inconel, hardened steels,tool steels and stainless steels:"
Here you can see the Starrett
line of bandsaw blades is mostly to so with cutting metal. They have just one choice for wood cutting blades, and the different features, but a number of them for metal cutting features.
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GW
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I have a metal cutting band saw and use Starrett bi-metal blades.
I have never heard of breaking in a band saw blade myself. Not knocking it, may be a good idea for bi-metal blades.Usually a blade lasts me about a year.I cut carbon steel,stainless, leaded steel,bronze,etc.I also have a wood cutting band saw. Like others the only thing I do is round the back on 3/8" and smaller blades that will cut curves for wood.
mike
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The only break in on a metal cutting blade is that the teeth are super sharp and cutting too fast can cause the blade to grab, straining the tool and blade. It is good to make lighter cuts on a medium steel like a 4140 for a minute or two to take the new edge off of the teeth. Much like using new sandpaper on a scrap surface before using it for fine sanding.
On wood blades- I just go.
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daddo said:
The only break in on a metal cutting blade is that the teeth are super sharp and cutting too fast can cause the blade to grab, straining the tool and blade. It is good to make lighter cuts on a medium steel like a 4140 for a minute or two to take the new edge off of the teeth. Much like using new sandpaper on a scrap surface before using it for fine sanding.
On wood blades- I just go.
Thx. Now I know why and it makes sense. Thanks.
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