Options for Deck Stairs?

[David Stone]

I need to replace the treads and risers for my deck stairs. The current stairs have 1" treads and 1/14" risers. My local supply store has only 1" treads. Pine is $3.50/foot. Fir is about $10/foot.

I assume this would work. But would I be better off getting treated lumber (1 1/2") and planing it down to the thicknesses I've got now?

Is it just a matter of cost?

[Wild Turkey]

How long did the originals last? Were they treated?

I'd go with the 1-1/2" treads and just rabbet the ends to fit on the risers but first I'd dummy it up with the full thickness treads -- they might work unaltered.

[David Stone]

I have no idea about the current stairs - they were here when I got the house. So, it's been at least 12 years.

Another question while I'm at it -- the end of one deck board rotted. I put this part of the deck in about 6 years ago. I'm not sure why this one piece rotted -- there's no leak about it that I can see.

Is there any easy way to replace this? I'm drawing a blank on how I can get one piece out without removing the whole deck. The boards are T&G, nailed together.

[Admiral]

Oscillating saw, plunge it in. Guys have been lucky with the Harbor Freight one for occasional use, but I bought the Bosch below and am very happy with it; I've used it way more than I thought I would, very handy for renovation work.



http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-2-5-Amp...gQodCkEKAQ

[FS7]

David Stone said:

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I have no idea about the current stairs - they were here when I got the house. So, it's been at least 12 years.

Another question while I'm at it -- the end of one deck board rotted. I put this part of the deck in about 6 years ago. I'm not sure why this one piece rotted -- there's no leak about it that I can see.

Is there any easy way to replace this? I'm drawing a blank on how I can get one piece out without removing the whole deck. The boards are T&G, nailed together.

---

The right way to replace a T&G board like that is to make two lengthwise rip cuts with a circular saw set just beyond the thickness of the board. Once you remove that center piece, you can remove the other two sides. Cut the bottom part of the groove off of the replacement board and face nail (or screw) the new board in. If your boards are loose enough and there's nothing in the way (and you have full access from the side, no fascia board in the way) you can slide or hammer in the replacement. This won't be fastened, though, and you may buckle the deck this way.

[rwe2156]

I would use 2X8 treated lumber for the treads. Don't plane it down. Risers on 2' centers.

I would just chop out the rotted part of the board with a claw hammer back to a useable joist, cut it flush and scab on a nailer.

[David Stone]

thanks everyone.

[John Mihich]

+1 on multi-tool - works great for things like this.

[David Stone]

Everything worked. I used the Fein tool to cut out the rotting piece. Slid in a new piece and nailed it in place. A little wood putty to mask the joint.

[mike4244]

David Stone said:

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I need to replace the treads and risers for my deck stairs. The current stairs have 1" treads and 1/14" risers. My local supply store has only 1" treads. Pine is $3.50/foot. Fir is about $10/foot.

I assume this would work. But would I be better off getting treated lumber (1 1/2") and planing it down to the thicknesses I've got now?

Is it just a matter of cost?

---

Most SYP ( treated yellow pine) treads are 1-1/8" thick.That should be close enough for your treads.
If you buy these ,look for treads that are not plain sawed.Most are.Quarter and rift sawn treads are desirable.Plain sawn tends to cup.The endgrain should be up and down ,vertically or slanted.
Plain sawn treads the grain is horizontal.
mike