Posts: 936
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
I'm attempting to veneer plywood with some birds eye maple veneer using hide glue. I've been looking at Barry Lorimer's videos on YouTube and attempting his techniques, wetting the veneer and substrate and smoothing with a steam iron. The veneer is 13x24. When I didn't wet the veneer before applying I get humps shortly after application as the veneer swells. I've had this happen similarly with wallpaper. If I wet it first - no humps - but - the veneer tears itself apart when it dries and shrinks. I've seen other videos that use a stabalizer (PEG IIRC.) Is that necessary? Any ideas as to how to handle the swell/shrink of the veneer? Sorry in advance if this is a very noob question.
Posts: 3,181
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2009
Hi Acorn
Tell us about your veneer. Is it thin? Thick? Store bought? Home made?
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer. It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
Posts: 936
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
Good question, Bailey. The veneer is purchased about 1/42inch thick and has been in my shop (garage) for several years. The shop is not typically airconditioned and often gets quite warm, i.e. the veneer is quite dry. It splits across the grain - long grain part stays intact. The veneer swells about a 1/4 inch or a bit more. The ply is cut to 13 inches wide to match the veneer, but veneer hangs over when finished by about 1/8th on each side. I'll try to post a photo today.
Posts: 3,181
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2009
I had similar problems with some Goncola Alves veneer I was using on a speaker project. The veneer was rift-cut as best I could tell, about 6" - 8" wide, and was pretty wavy and thick. It took three pieces to cover one side of the speaker. I was able to get it to lay down by using a veneer softener, and it went on fine. But it would shrink and sometimes crack as it dried, leaving a gap between the pieces. I finally gave up on the large projects, and resigned myself to use it for only small stuff.
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer. It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
Posts: 936
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
Thanks. I'll keep trying different approaches until something works.
Posts: 1,347
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
how are you applying the veneer with regards to the grain of the substrait? That could be your problem.
Mike
"Unless you try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Posts: 936
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
The veneer is applied long grain to long grain. I think the excessive swell and shrinkage of the veneer is the probable problem. I plan to try to veneer another panel of 3/8ths plywood without wetting the veneer first. the hide glue will wet it some but hopefully I won't get so much swell.
Thank you very much for the reply and thought here.
Posts: 86
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2008
I believe the question was regarding grain orientation. Veneer should be applied cross grain to the substrate like plywood. Since you did not mention the board warping, I assume you veneered the opposite side of the board as well. Is it only the one type of veneer that cracks? Are you successful with other veneers? Trying to determine if it is technique or material that is the problem.
Semper Audere!