cutting veneer triangles
#11
So I found a veneer I want to use on my table top. The top is going to be a hexagon. Each wedge of the hexagon will have a book matched veneer. The long radius of the hexagon is 52" so each piece needs to be 26" long. The base of the triangle is just under 20". This is purchased veneer so it is real thin. Should I cut the book match side straight and tape two pieces together then use a jig and veneer saw to cut the angle? Cut the angle before taping together? The veneer I am getting is 27"x12.75" so I have some room.

Any tricks to ensure the jig is the correct angle? I was thinking of using some 3/4" material for the jig. That should be thick enough to guide the veneer saw.
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#12
I would make two templates the correct angles then rough cut the veneers oversize, stack them all in between the two cover boards clamp and cut all of them with a router and a flush bit..

If the templates are right and you align everything properly it should yield  your hexagon. 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
If the veneer is that thin I'd try a good straight edge clamped down and a razor knife.
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Wild Turkey
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#14
Joe's method sounds good.  One tip that sounds simple but is very helpful is to put self stick sandpaper on the back of a wide ruler.  I use rulers that are 2" wide so they aren't easy to nudge and wide enough to keep your fingers out of the way.  If you're working with veneer, at some point, you're going to need to hand trim a piece.

Lonnie
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#15
(08-02-2016, 03:09 PM)Mr Eddie Wrote: Joe's method sounds good.  One tip that sounds simple but is very helpful is to put self stick sandpaper on the back of a wide ruler.  I use rulers that are 2" wide so they aren't easy to nudge and wide enough to keep your fingers out of the way.  If you're working with veneer, at some point, you're going to need to hand trim a piece.

Lonnie

Build up the hexagon as two parts and then fit them together.  By laying the two halves over each other, you can trim the mating edges to get a perfect fit.

When building up the two parts, make your individual pieces LONGER than necessary.  This will produce a ragged outside edge, but give you the latitude to trim and fit the CENTER where everything comes together.  Then once it is all put together, trim the outside to create the final shape.

I believe Rob Millard illustrates this method in one of his YouTube videos.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#16
Thanks for the suggestions. 
Joe, I did use that method for doing some booked and butted pieces. You need a lot or real estate for the clamps and router base. I wasn't sure how to do that with a triangle template.

Lonnie, I like the suggestion of using sandpaper to help hold the ruler but I am not a fan of using a utility knife for cutting veneer. I have been caught a couple times thinking I could just make a quick cut with a knife and it follows the skewed grain and ruins the cut. I prefer taking the time to set up and use a veneer saw when hand trimming something.

Rob, I had heard of doing that method with shop sawn veneer. I will try looking up some videos to get a better tutorial.

Last night I thought about getting some poster board to practice with. I will make some templates and try some different techniques with poster board to see which works best for me. I also have the backer veneer I can practice with.
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#17
It does not take as much room as you might think.....  start out with two at the outside of the triangle and two about halfway down the triangle.. then   cut out the waste between the clamps.Then move the  top clamps down the cut sides to a point that gives you the clearance to begin the next series of cuts, then move the middle clamps down toward the point more 




I have found that 4 well placed clamps is more than enough  to accomplish the task in short order 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#18
(08-03-2016, 09:26 AM)JGrout Wrote: It does not take as much room as you might think.....  start out with two at the outside of the triangle and two about halfway down the triangle.. then   cut out the waste between the clamps.Then move the  top clamps down the cut sides to a point that gives you the clearance to begin the next series of cuts, then move the middle clamps down toward the point more 




I have found that 4 well placed clamps is more than enough  to accomplish the task in short order 

Joe
I will give that a try. I recently got a trim router so that should give me more room. The only problem is my nice router bit with shear has a 1/2" shank and the trim router only takes 1/4". I do have a standard straight bit I can use in the trim router.
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#19
I described the process based on a full size router  your top is what at least 40" diameter? that is 20" + long on one edge 

either will work I just prefer the weight of a bigger router for these tasks  if you are concerned about tipping make an outboard support for the base of the router 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#20
I would use a router with a dovetail cutter. This will give relief to the cut and the seam will be tight.You could use a 1/4" straight cutter and cut 1/16" over size  ,then trim with the dovetail cutter. Also I would use a router not a trim router. More stable because of the larger base.
mike
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