Hanging a new (used) entry door? Hints?

[PedroOhare]

Yeah I am overthinking this.
 
My garage door (the entry, not the big roll up door) is delaminating and generally falling apart. I checked on line and a new steel entry door starts at around $300 and goes up. So, I went to Habitat Restore and bought a new/used steel door that was much nicer than the entry level door for $45. Yes, I measured and it is the right size. Unfortunately, the hinges don’t line up the same on the two doors. Does it matter whether I re-hinge on the door or the door casing? I guess I would prefer to keep the hinges on the casing and replace them on the side of the door as I can get the door where I want it for ease of access. I intend to use a backsaw to cut and a router plane (a Stanley 71- not a tailed monster) to set the depth of the mortise for the hinge. Any reason not to do it this way?
 
Finally, I plan on just placing the loose door in the entrance and marking where the old hinges are. Is that the best way to mark the hinge location?
 
Thanks

Pedro
 

[Robert Adams]

The best solution is to get a door and frame and replace as a whole. Most likely the old frame is pretty old if the hinges don't line up and the door seals may not be the best style either. 

     As to what side to mod the hinges. Modify the frame if you are going that route. Reason being is that the ones on a metal door are formed into the door and really can't be moved. Also iif the door ever gets replaced again it's using the standard hinge placement. 


       Where were you seeing $300 and up doors. A steel door without s window starts at $120 with a frame and with a window $150.


         For cutting the hinge pockets no need for a back saw or a router plane measure your hinges and transpose them to the frame. Plain old adjustable 4" square. Then I like to score te edges with a utility knife. Then get your trim router out ad a straight bit and freehand the cut. Or if you can't do the router a good chisel works. A pencil, square, tape measure and a chisel are about all you need to install hinges. 

            The big tip is to make sure you don't hang it too low. I often will make the gap at the top smaller than usual because the rubber seals on the bottom of the door are sometimes very thick and in an old frame they might drag as some or door frames were shorter. Course some were 1" taller in the 80s...

[jteneyck]

I agree with Robert; I would re-mortise the jamb, not the door.  I've done it quite a few times.  I take out the old hinges, clean up the mortises with a trim router and straight bit, and then glue in some wood pieces cut and shaped to fit.  Flush and trim after the glue has dried and you are ready to cut new mortises. 

I make a story pole for cutting the new hinges.  Its just a piece of 1 x whatever cut to fit perfectly into the jamb opening.  Mark the gap you want at the top of the door on one end, then hold it against the hinge side of the door, align the mark with the top of the door and then mark out the hinge locations.  Put the story pole into the door opening and transfer the hinge locations to the jamb.  Cut the mortises as your prefer.  I do as Robert said with a trim router, freehand, and then clean up with a chisel.  If you hold the hinge in place first and knife around it you can cut right up to the knife mark freehand.  

John

[mike4244]

Pedro, use a stick for a story rod.With the door lock side on the floor lay a wooden stick on the hinge side.Mark the hinges on the stick,both the top and bottom of each leaf. Now check the head jamb for level.You want a 1/8" margin between the door top and head jamb.If the head is level then tack the stick to the jamb 1/8" past the door top and mark out your hinges.Remove one hinge from the door,two screws to hold the leaf to the jamb.Knife the top and bottom of the leaf.DO NOT knife along the grain as the knife may follow the grain not the leaf.Instead take a wide and sharp chisel and place the bevel away from the leaf.Only tap chisel hard enough to ensure a shallow cut.
Remove the leaf.Now take the chisel and turn it so the bevel is toward the mortise.Deepen the cut to about1/8".
Chisel the top ,bottom and side til you have a clean cut outline. Now you can deepen the majority of each mortise with a forstner bit til you get to the thickness of the leaf.Clean up the mortise with a chisel.
I did not mention a router because then you would also need to buy or make a jig to mortise the jamb.
When your done you can patch the old mortises easily with Bondo.Drive staples  into the jamb ,maybe a dozen at most and pull them up til they have 1/16" clearance or so.This will ensure the Bondo stays put. Mask the area around the patch and apply Bondo.Leave the Bondo slightly high and remove masking tape.After an hour or so you can sand the patches down.After painting the jambs you will never find the patches you did.

mike

[jteneyck]

Mike, I've often used a hinge mortising template but you don't really need to if you use a palm router.  If you knife or chisel the hinge outline, you can cut right up to the line freehand, or so close that there's little paring left to do with a chisel.  I can, so I think anyone with a steady hand can, too. 

John

[JGrout]

I dont really tthink it matters as to which one you fill and mortise. 

if the door is easier go for it. 

I use a story stick as well for the layouts just make sure you allow for the head margin at the top (~3/32")

gluing in wood fillers is fine, on a paint grade door I just use bondo 

but that is me either works....

You likely will have to check the latch location once you get the door in place it may need adjustments done as well That is best adjusted to the jamb so the lock bores are not changed

[Wizard of Oz]

When I did this to my house, I put both doors together, and marked and routed the hinges. Worked great. Then had to change the casing for the lock from the old door to the new door (new used door). Then filled in the old lock holes on the casing.

[crokett™]

When I'm replacing a door slab I leave the existing hinge locations on the jamb and cut new ones on the door. It's easier to get the door the correct height in the opening that way. I use the old door or a story stick to mark the locations on the new door.

[rwe2156]

I would epoxy glue a piece of wood in the existing mortise in the JAMB, plane down flush, and start from scratch.