Thin kerf on a chop saw?

[Herb G]

I can't remember if I already asked this. TBI is not a good thing.
Can I use a thin kerf blade on a chop saw?
By chop saw I mean a 10" miter saw, non sliding.

The blade is a 24T ATB Avanti Framing/Ripping blade.

Safe to use, or find something else?

[fredhargis]

I use a thin kerf on mine, prefer it actually. I suppose the concern would be deflection in the blade, which could be a problem for precision cuts, like frame miters; but mine seems to be just fine.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Perfectly safe to use.

[AHill]

I absolutely disagree that using a saw blade designed for a table saw is "perfectly safe" when used in a chop saw.  Unless it's designed for a chop saw, I'd be careful.  The rake of the teeth isn't optimal for the way a chop saw cuts.  Most chop saw blades have a negative rake angle on the teeth, vs. a positive rake angle on table saw/radial arm saw blades.  If you use a positive rank angle saw blade on a miter / chop saw, you risk the work piece getting lifted up easier.  The cut will be a bit less smooth as well.  I'd make sure I have very good downward pressure on the work piece if I was using a saw blade with a positive hook angle.

From Rockler's Saw Blades 101:

"Hook Angle
On most saw blades, the faces of the teeth are tipped forward or backward, rather than being perfectly in line with the center of the blade. This is called "hook angle." On a blade with a positive hook angle, the teeth are tipped forward, toward the direction of the blade's rotation. A negative hook angle means that teeth tip away from the direction of rotation, and a 0° hook angle means that the teeth are in line with the center of the blade.

Hook angle has an important effect on blade operation. A blade with high positive hook angle (say, 20°) will yield a very aggressive cut and a fast feed rate. A low or negative hook angle will slow the feed rate and will also inhibit the blade's tendency to "climb" the material being cut. A blade for ripping lumber on a table saw will generally have a high hook angle, where an aggressive, fast cut is usually what you want. Radial-arm saws and sliding compound miter saws, on the other hand, require a blade with a very low or negative hook angle to inhibit overly fast feed rate, binding and the blade's tendency to "climb" the material."

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm not conflating hook angle with the thickness of the blade. He didn't ask about hook; he asked about thickness.

I have no clue about the angle on that blade he listed.

[Herb G]

Sounds like I'll just work with what came on it.
I don't want any injuries. I have quite enough problems already, thank you.

[Bill Wilson]

I would really hesitate to use a rip blade on a chop saw.  The tooth geometry is all wrong and may be an accident waiting to happen. Can't imagine the cut quality being all that great either.

[sweensdv2]

"Just turn them off, problem solved..."
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Huh?

[Wild Turkey]

I'd be really careful using a 24 tooth on a miter saw. Cut quality will be down and I'd not be comfortable with that few teeth.

I've used a 50+ tooth TS blade with no problems but a rip blade is pushing it a little to far for me.

If it's just for a few 2x4's and nothing short, I'd do it. But anything smaller or harder I'd look for something else in my stash.

[Bill Wilson]

"Just turn them off, problem solved..."
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Huh?

That's my sig line.  It was a weak attempt at humor, in response to a thread in the basement a week or so ago.  I forgot to change it back.