Evaporust v. Diet Coke?
#31
Any need to worry about japanning or etching on saw plates?

My understanding is a "no", but wanted to check with a few of you who've done more of this.
Reply
#32
I am a citric acid fan, but just found out that some of the vise restorers use molasses to remove rust. They get feed store molasses, mix it with water at 1:10 ratio (that's one part molasses to ten parts water), and soak the large cast iron lumps for several days. Temperature seems to matter and the best results are obtained at 60+ degrees F. Anyone here try molasses?
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---
Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
Reply
#33
(06-18-2016, 01:41 PM)Timberwolf Wrote:
Quote:

Thoughts? I rather not waste my time or my Diet Coke testing this.




Plain old white vinegar works pretty well and it is cheapest..



+1 ......... That is what I used, Evaporust works but is to expensive for me, Vinegar is cheap. I rinse than use a heat gun to dry and wipe down with a 3-1 oily rag and a coat of wax.



Steve
Reply
#34
A big +++1 here for the Evaporust... It's super stuff (cheaper by the 5 gal bucket too)
Reply
#35
Diet coke will not work.  Neither will vinegar.  Evaporust will work.

For very heavy rust, 24 hrs in a electrolysis tank.

BUT -- before you do any of this, see how far you get with wire brush, flap wheel, sand paper, etc.  You might be surprised!
Reply
#36
I'm concerned about the weight I might put on from too much Diet Coke, and Evaporust makes my teeth feel tingly....
Reply
#37
(08-18-2016, 08:54 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Diet coke will not work.  Neither will vinegar.  Evaporust will work.

For very heavy rust, 24 hrs in a electrolysis tank.

BUT -- before you do any of this, see how far you get with wire brush, flap wheel, sand paper, etc.  You might be surprised!

I beg to differ with you on the Vinegar, I have used it for years and it works.


Steve
Reply
#38
+1 for vinegar.

Frank S in IA
Reply
#39
(08-18-2016, 08:54 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Diet coke will not work.  Neither will vinegar.  Evaporust will work.

For very heavy rust, 24 hrs in a electrolysis tank.

BUT -- before you do any of this, see how far you get with wire brush, flap wheel, sand paper, etc.  You might be surprised!



Vinegar will work.  Well, it worked for me.  Maybe mine was magic?

Hell, you can *watch* it work if you're patient.  Bubbles start forming on the surface showing the release of hydrogen gas as the vinegar reacts with the metal.
Semper fi,
Brad

Reply
#40
(08-18-2016, 08:54 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: BUT -- before you do any of this, see how far you get with wire brush, flap wheel, sand paper, etc.  You might be surprised!

I agree that you can get very far using those methods, however, there's always some rust left behind in small crevices, etc.  So I use a wire wheel (preferably one of those artificial wire wheels) in an angle grinder and/or sandblast to get the bulk rust out as my first line of attack, then I submerge in Evaporust overnight to get the rust the wire wheel/sandblasting won't reach.  Then be sure to use a self-etching primer to cover immediately after following the directions on the Evaporust.

Paul
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.