Veneering Info Needed

[jteneyck]

Getting the wheels coplaner was key getting my saw to cut straight; no doubt about it.  I agree that you should not start moving things w/o consulting the manual.  If the manual is silent about it and you are having problems then I would call the manufacturer to see what they say.  They absolutely built their saw to some specification.  If they wouldn't tell me how the wheels were supposed to be aligned then I wouldn't think much of their CS, and I'd have no qualms about adjusting them as best I saw fit.  You cannot go wrong if you make the wheels coplaner, whether or not it was aligned that way originally.  The benefit was instant with my saw, and for many others I've talked to.  I've never heard anyone say that there saw cut worse after they aligned the wheels to be coplaner.  

John

[rwe2156]

Whatever. Just because it worked with your saw it appears nothing is going to change your mind.

[Mr Eddie]

RWE,
I've worked on a lot of different machines and engines over the years.  In every case, wheels, pulleys, gears, etc., were always in the same plane.  I can't think of a single reason why you wouldn't want the wheels in alignment.  I'd be interested to hear why it would be done any other way.

Lonnie

[jteneyck]

It's not my opinion, it is empirical evidence that supports that conclusion.  Others here have expressed similar results with their saws.  It is in Grizzly's owner's manual. That alone should make you stop and rethink your opinion.  

Your saw doesn't cut straight so that doesn't speak very well for whatever Powermatic or you did with its setup.  If you eventually decide you would like it to cut straight, what would you do?  

John

[rwe2156]

Your saw doesn't cut straight so that doesn't speak very well for whatever Powermatic or you did with its setup.  If you eventually decide you would like it to cut straight, what would you do?  

John

If you take the time to read through this thread I think you'll see my point. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.p...e-question

Here is just one post: "In theory, perhaps, but not in reality.Or at least not in my experience. Reason being that in this era of huge-resaw-capacity bandsaws, if there is any "non-coplanarity" between the upper and lower wheels, there is such much distance between the upper and lower flywheels that it just doesn't manifest itself in the blade performance. Or at least not in my experience.

I can tell you, for example, that in 10+ years of setting up Italian bandsaws, I have never once checked "co-planarity" if the upper and lower wheels. It's just never been an issue."

Erik Loza
Minimax

[response]I have to admit Erik, that with 35 years of industrial experience I've never seen a bandsaw checked for coplanarity or had the blade tension released except when changing blades, nor have I ever adjusted a fence for drift.

Mr Snodgrass says don't worry about it, probably because he's using a PM.

I suggest you do some research instead of making dogmatic, universal statements instructing people to change the settings on their saws.

Seems flat tires vs. crowned, brand and size of saw is the determining factor.

My saw cuts straight. I'm leaving it alone.

[jteneyck]

The reason Eric probably has never had to check an Italian made saw to see if the wheels are coplaner is because those manufacturers know it's important and make sure their saws are set up properly when they leave the factory.  Grizzly clearly knows it's important and is helpful enough to tell you how to adjust the saw if you find the wheels aren't coplaner.  If it wasn't important why would they do that?  All the steel framed saws I've looked at have a way of adjusting the angle of the lower wheel.  Why is that? 

My comments were targeted at folks who find their saw won't cut straight even after doing everything else.  The reason behind the problem is often that the wheels aren't coplaner.  If you choose to believe a statement of fact is a dogmatic statement that's your choice, but facts are stubborn things and won't change. 

John