Final prep for cherry (hand tool shop)
#8
Listening to FWW Shop Talk Live while working in the shop and those guys said to sand cherry to prevent blotching, even after planning with a smoother, go back and sand 150, 220, 400, 600....in context, they were not talking about a production shop, they were talking about guys like me, non vocational wood workers, one off type of stuff.


This is not the my go to method, so of course I could be doing it wrong, but I don't go back and start a sanding process at 150-220 after I have just used a smoother.


However these are the same guys that built a Shaker workbench without dog holes, then when called on the lack of dog holes, argued that dog holes were not needed on woodworking benches.....


So how do other " non vocational" hand tool woodworkers prep cherry for finishing to prevent blotches?


Regards,
Andy
Mos Maiorum
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#9
For one thing, I don't sweat too much over cherry blotching.  I can never seem to get a perfect surface with planes alone, so I usually lightly sand with 220 grit. Not sure why one would need to go courser then that. Also, sanding with too fine a grit may cause more problems with blotching.
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#10
I sand cherry after planing it, but not past 220.  The best way I have found to prevent blotching is to wipe on coats of cut shellac and then use green Scotch-brite to smooth it.  You can stop there or put a topcoat of wipe-on or spray finish for more protection.  Some will just wax over the shellac.  I'm doing a cherry piece right now.
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#11
(11-01-2016, 10:27 AM)Mike Brady Wrote: I sand cherry after planing it, but not past 220.  The best way I have found to prevent blotching is to wipe on coats of cut shellac and then use green Scotch-brite to smooth it.  You can stop there or put a topcoat of wipe-on or spray finish for more protection.  Some will just wax over the shellac.  I'm doing a cherry piece right now.

^^^^^This.  Google "spit coat shellac"

I use about a one pound cut, actually less.  Dries quickly.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#12
I agree. Plane to glass smooth. Lightly (very lightly) rough up with 220. Apply 1 lb (or less) cut  of de-waxed shellac, preferably blond mixed from flakes. Apply oil finish to heart's content. 

You'll be happy.
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#13
I found that a < 1# cut of dewaxed shellac lightly sanded back did a good job for me.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#14
I do not sand unless I am staining. Shellac right off the plane or scraper if it's gnarly. 

If I'm staining I work up to 320. 600 seems excessive.
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