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My General 14" has two speeds, I still wouldn't cut ferrous metals. I have the M12 and the M18 deep cut cordless portaband by Milwaukee. The M12 would make the cuts you want in about 20 seconds per cut with no sparks or stench. It also cuts aluminum or brass or stainless when an abrasive cut off saw or grinder can't. Rebar, all thread, unistrut, small angle iron, pipe or cold-rolled shaft, it walks through all of them. Great tools on a construction site.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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I have the Milwaukee table. It's ok. Check out Wranglerstar on YouTube. He does a review of a vertical mount table that would be easy to build. Different use but might be more up your alley. Sorry I can't get a link from the phone.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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(11-27-2016, 04:17 PM)Scouter Wrote: I'm cutting a 1/2" square tube and need 4 pieces exactly the same size. I can cut it with a hacksaw, then grind it to the same size, but cutting in on my RAS would be faster and more accurate.
1/2" tube? Not worth doing anything but fitting a new hacksaw blade and going to work, as already suggested. If it's tube, you need a fine tooth blade. Solid likes a courser blade.
For a lot of cutoff work, the HF 4-1/2" angle grinder is a bargain at $14. I still haven't killed mine, and I've cut a LOT of solid material with it, as well as grinding off welds to replace trailer couplers and such (no torches any more
).
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-...69645.html
Tom
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I used a metal cutting composite blade on my Craftsman RAS to cut 1-1/4" square steel tubing, easy peasy.
Im sure these are the same people that have said they got no problem eating cats and dogs but shreek like little girls at the sight of an octopus.jonzz 12/17/13
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(11-28-2016, 12:46 PM)splinter7612 Wrote: I used a metal cutting composite blade on my Craftsman RAS to cut 1-1/4" square steel tubing, easy peasy.
I did the same with a Delta miter saw. Lots of sparks and grit but it did the job. Wouldn't do it with my slider -- too much grit flying around.
A jig saw with a metal cutting blade also works well.
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Wild Turkey
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(11-27-2016, 10:31 PM)Bob10 Wrote: The make a table accessory for the saw Joe posted. I have that saw but the table is another $250 and I haven't come across a deal on one yet
Here is an option for about half the price.
Might be an answer, depending on what your needs are.
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11-29-2016, 01:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-29-2016, 01:17 PM by tomsteve.)
(11-28-2016, 12:46 PM)splinter7612 Wrote: I used a metal cutting composite blade on my Craftsman RAS to cut 1-1/4" square steel tubing, easy peasy.
+1 with a dewalt. have also done it on my TS cutting sheetmetal.
best to make sure theres no sawdust accumulation on the saw.
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I bought the el-cheapo from HF with full no questions 2 year warranty. Been a great saw- no complaints and I have made a hundred cuts so far- even with 3" round aluminum stock.
I made the frame for it.
It flips up to hand cut and down for regular cuts.
It cuts 4 times faster than the sawzall.
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I use a sawzall with a demo blade. The ones I use are call "the axe"
I know it's a wood blade, but it works great. Use it on the long edge of the bar. You can also use sawzall hacksaw blades.
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11-30-2016, 12:44 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-30-2016, 12:44 AM by MstrCarpenter.)
I keep a "Steel Demon" blade in one of my older Makita 5007's. Not sure if I would use one in the RAS, but would not hesitate to use it in a chop saw. The maintenance shop at one of my jobsites has a 12" (toothed metal cutting) in a Rigid power miter saw that they use to cut everything, including solid S.S.. If my only option was a RAS, I would use an abrasive blade. These throw a lot of sparks so clear all the sawdust and don't leave the shop for a few hours, just in case.
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