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The opposite is true: most people adjust their metal planes, not using a hammer. Rob Cosman, Paul Sellers, and many many more have never been seen using a hammer on their metal planes.
But I use a hammer for fine adjustments as I find it more precise than using my fingers to tune (my planes are all Veritas (Norris style)).
Both approaches work just fine.
Simon
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Bob,
That's a beautiful hammer. May I ask what type of fitting you used? And did it come with a hole in the center where you inserted the handle, or did you have to drill that out on a drill press?
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(12-12-2016, 02:35 PM)SCMedLion Wrote: Bob,
That's a beautiful hammer. May I ask what type of fitting you used? And did it come with a hole in the center where you inserted the handle, or did you have to drill that out on a drill press?
Thanks! It was turned on a lathe from a piece of solid brass hex stock and polished by hand with sandpaper on a granite tile. The oval hole was cut on a Bridgeport mill. If I did it again, I'd use a tapered end mill so that the top of the hole is slightly larger than the bottom, making space for a wedge and locking the head to the handle.
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Chester Toolworks owned by Dave Anderson, a moderator on Sawmill Creek, makes these. ( First photo) They also are marketed, in a slightly different form, by "The Best Things". (Second photo.) I have the TBT version, and like it just fine.
![[Image: hammers.jpg]](http://www.chestertoolworks.com/images/hammers.jpg)
![[Image: chester_toolworks_hammer.jpg]](http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/graphics/chester_toolworks_hammer.jpg)
Tony
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Beautiful hammers, but expensive. Interesting that the Best Things warns that nylon is harder than wood and can mar a plane. (I was going to get the Grace brass hammer with one nylon face.) Is there any economical hammer that's heavy enough (8 oz or so) to adjust a wood plane and also includes a wooden face? Is there any way to attach a wooden face to a brass hammer (or to the nylon face of a brass hammer) without using a lathe or machining tools? Or is a nylon face good enough?
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George
if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green
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(12-12-2016, 02:41 PM)enjuneer Wrote: Thanks! It was turned on a lathe from a piece of solid brass hex stock and polished by hand with sandpaper on a granite tile. The oval hole was cut on a Bridgeport mill. If I did it again, I'd use a tapered end mill so that the top of the hole is slightly larger than the bottom, making space for a wedge and locking the head to the handle.
As the recipient of said hammer, I used it with glee while at IP School of Fine Cabinetmaking this spring on my Krenov, shop built planes.
Thanks again Bob!
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(12-13-2016, 02:08 PM)Ron Hock Wrote: Best one I've seen or used: http://www.glen-drake.com/Plane-Adjusting-Hammers/
How is that? Would you care to explain?
Is it because the narrow end could be used on a moulding plane?
Simon
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The narrow end is a screwdriver for the breaker screw. Fits perfectly and securely and the handle gives you lots of torque.
And the riven, tan-oak handles are "clocked" (twisted slightly) for right- or left-hand use. Very comfortable and control-able.
http://www.glen-drake.com/Plane-Adjusting-Hammers/
