what clear top coat to use

[Cooler]

I have always brushed on clear oil based poly with good results.  But it takes too long to cure.

I have just bought a new HVLP spray unit (Sprayfine 4 stage).  

I want to spray a table top for use in a restaurant.  I will be using red oak with an oil based stain.  

The finish has to stand up to ceramic mugs placed on the surface and frequent daily wiping with a spray cleaner (something like Windex).

The oil based (Minwax) finish (3 coats) has stood up over 10 years.  Can I find something that will do as well but dry much quicker?

Recommendations?

[jteneyck]

I think your best option is a solvent or waterborne conversion varnish.  If your booth is not explosion proof, then only waterborne. 

You are not going to like the price.

John

[Cooler]

The blower blows air into the room and is separated from the room by a filter.  I consider that a safe environment for volatile compounds.

So is there any difference in durability between the water borne (is that "oil modified"?) and the solvent borne?

[jteneyck]

The blower blows air into the room and is separated from the room by a filter.  I consider that a safe environment for volatile compounds.

So is there any difference in durability between the water borne (is that "oil modified"?) and the solvent borne?

It isn't safe if you have any electric switches in there.  I don't spray solvent finishes besides shellac in my shop.  There are too many good waterborne finishes to risk disaster.

Both solvent and waterborne conversion varnishes are very durable.  Which is more durable would depend upon the particular product you pick.  Sorry, I can't provide a direst comparison.  

I've heard good things about the MinWax oil modified waterborne poly, but haven't used nor tested it yet.  The same for Target Coatings EM-2000 (I think).  I doubt either, however, would be as durable as a conversion varnish. 

John

[Cooler]

The room was originally set up as a dark room.  Dark rooms hate dust even more that painters.  

But a dark room requires no light.  So when I built the room I made the inlet for the forced air near the floor and ran a duct to near the ceiling.  The light could not make the three bends and it remains dark.

So the blower blows into a filter which fits over a grate which then has the  air flow about 5 feet up and a foot into the room.  Given the distance and the direction of the flow of air and the intervening 3M paper micro filter I don't see how a spark could make it to the fan.  I always turn on the fan before entering the room so that no dust follows me into the room.  

That said I do have lights in the room and I don't think I will use any solvent borne materials.  

The Minwax Oil Modified is available locally and if it works would be a contender.  I seem to only see the larger sized pails of this stuff however.  I will look for a quart size.

I'm new to spraying, so this is all an adventure.

Thanks.