Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
on the Table saw a 40 tooth combo blade will work
On a circular saw 24 tooth like a freud diablo works well
expect to do some edge clean up either way you will not get perfect cuts
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 20,381
Threads: 4
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: CinDay
$8 door you can hardly go wrong. I personally think it's gonna look like &%$& with an inch off each side, but hey it's your door.
Circular saw with a straight edge if alone, with help on a TS with the rip fence like Mac suggested. Either way all hardware off before cutting.
It's a rip cut so 24 tooth with a flat grind would be my choice. But for an 8 dollar door I wouldn't buy it if I didn't have it. Painters tape to both sides of the door, or on top, and lay the door on pink foam board to cut it. I'd use either a ripper, or a combo, but not a high tooth count blade.
You will need to re-mortise for door hardware, and the cut wood will be paler than what you are looking at now, so you might want to consider a finish. I'd go paint, because you won't get the old to match the edges.
My biggest concern would be is, what kind of joint is it held together with? It could be tongue n groove, M&T, half lap, or a doweled butt joint. Depending on the penetration taking off 1" could make for a wobbly door. Take a picture real close of the edge/corner of the door, one corner or the other.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
Posts: 1,172
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,630
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2016
Location: Green & Gold and Red & White country
I dont know the frame you are putting the door in, and how tight the door will be to the frame, but usually the lock set side of the door has a slight bevel on it.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. RMB
The SO asked me today, "what are you going to do to day"? I said "nothing". She said, "that's what you did yesterday"! Me, "Yes love, but I was not finished yet"!!!!!!!!
Posts: 14,931
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Butler, PA
Seeing the door in question, I would definitely lean toward the table saw. With some auxiliary infeed/outfeed support, that should be a pretty easy cut to make. Now, with 1" trimmed off of each side, the stiles may end up looking a little too narrow, but other than disassemble the door and recut the rails, there isn't much you can do about that.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
Posts: 15
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2017
Thank you all for some great ideas & tips.
[size=undefined]Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsmen can hide his mistakes!
-Walter Blodget[/size]
Posts: 1,531
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
I agree about the bevel on the lock side of the door. All decent doors have this.
John T.
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
(02-06-2017, 09:31 PM)JTTHECLOCKMAN Wrote: I agree about the bevel on the lock side of the door. All decent doors have this.
It is 3 degrees FYI and the only way a door margin can be properly set is with a bevel or a stepped face ( steel doors are a good example)
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 304
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2007
Have you thought about disassemble the door a trimming the cross rails instead? that way the proportions of the rail and stiles would be maintained. It would also allow you to trim the panels too. you will also have to mortise the hinges if just taking off a 1/2" on each side. Dan
Posts: 4,444
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
Put a 24 tpi blade in a hand held circular saw. Clamp a straight edge set back for the cut. This being a rip cut too many teeth makes the blade get hot and may wobble.
mike