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02-11-2017, 01:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-11-2017, 01:31 PM by jteneyck.)
(02-10-2017, 09:04 PM)overland Wrote: What about a mixture of BLO, varnish, and mineral spirits, which I've applied with a rag to my dining table and other furniture? Wouldn't that be easier to repair in the future? Or would it not go well with the lacquer on other parts of the chair?
That is the classic oil/varnish mix. It will likely be more durable than the lacquer and it's fairly easy to repair. But if you leave out the BLO and just mix MS with varnish you will have a wiping varnish, and that will be just as easy to apply and be a lot more durable so you won't need to repair it for a very long time.
Whatever you do the arms aren't going to match the rest of the chairs perfectly, but they will be close as long as you don't sand the wood. You can put a shellac toner on the arms prior to the varnish, you could add tint to the varnish. You could probably get a nearly perfect match if you have a good eye and are patient. And in 5 years they will be different because what you did is not what's on the rest of the chairs. That's just the nature of the beast with cherry. It's going to change. I would avoid the hassle and heartache and shoot for a durable repair, and let Mother nature do as she will.
John
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Yes, I think I will do what you suggest, first strip, then either the blend or just varnish with some thinner. I don't think I'll try to fool around matching the exact shade of the rest of the chair--unless what I do is really off.
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I would use a card scraper to even things up. Then use rattle can lacquer to touch up. If it is real lacquer, it should burn in and match. Color touch up can be done after a spit coat of lacquer, then sealed down with more spray lacquer.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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That will work, but the problem is he will be repeating the repair again and again. Lacquer just doesn't hold up well to skin contact unless it's a catalyzed version.
John
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(02-12-2017, 06:04 PM)jteneyck Wrote: That will work, but the problem is he will be repeating the repair again and again. Lacquer just doesn't hold up well to skin contact unless it's a catalyzed version.
John
True that.
Easier to remove the skin or easier to use cat-lacquer?
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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Better to use varnish.
John
