putting in a 45 degree drywall corner

[EricU]

I decided to put a wall up over the radon mitigation tube in one of the corners in my shop.  It's about a 15" span from the closest place I could put a stud on each side wall.  I'm not sure how this is normally done.  Defintely should have thought about it before I put in the studs, but I really don't want to take them out now.  I was just thinking about spanning the gap with OSB and then putting drywall on top.  Because the tube is in there, it's a bit tricky to put 2x4's spanning the gap. And since my shop is such a construction zone right now, I'd rather not rip a 2x4 at an angle to fair out the edges.  Doesn't quite seem necessary anyway

Any ideas?  I'm trying to think like someone who does this to make money, but I'm failing at that. Don't really want to put in a square column, which is probably what they would do.

My current plan is to cut a header used for steel studs in half and attach the drywall to that. I'm halfway tempted just to put up metal lath and plaster it. But my experience with that suggests it would take a while. Never did figure out how to keep the plaster from setting up right away.

[JGrout]

Rip a bevel in a 2x4  and attach them to existing studs ( you say are already there) with screws then drywall that? 

Saves the osb step 

Joe

[Mr_Mike]

Since you really only need support on drywall every two feet or so, I'd horizontally apply some 1x strapping every two feet with the ends beveled 45 degrees and apply drywall. You said you wouldn't want to rip a bevel, but I assume you can cross cut a bevel with a circular saw.

In reality, I'd box it in square instead of the diagonal as I'm OCD that way. I'd box to the minimum possible dimension by vertically applying a 1x3 to each wall where I wanted the finished wall to be.
I'd add a sill plate to be consistent with the adjoining walls. Then boxing in with OSB using a 2x2 in the free corner. Then, if desired, overlay with drywall. More work, but I would like the result better.

[Mr_Mike]

Rip a bevel in a 2x4  and attach them to existing studs ( you say are already there) with screws then drywall that? 

Saves the osb step 

Joe

As a further thought, why not rip a bevel on two edges of OSB and directly attach to studs? He said he didn't want to rip a bevel, but perhaps he could be persuaded to with a circular saw. One piece of wood and done. No drywall needed either.

[crokett™]

I'd cross cut bevels in 2x stock and attach to the studs either side every 16", horizontally. Then I'd screw drywall to those.

[EricU]

I think ripping the bevel will be easier.  Sometimes I'm a little slow, I'm going to cut a 2x4 into manageable length pieces so they are short enough that I can rip them.  Since I had to pull everything to the center of the room, it's hard to rip anything longer than about 4' or so.

I thought about doing cross cut braces, but it seems to me that I would have to work pretty hard to get the measurements right.

[Mr_Mike]

I think ripping the bevel will be easier.  Sometimes I'm a little slow, I'm going to cut a 2x4 into manageable length pieces so they are short enough that I can rip them.  Since I had to pull everything to the center of the room, it's hard to rip anything longer than about 4' or so.

I thought about doing cross cut braces, but it seems to me that I would have to work pretty hard to get the measurements right.

Why? Measure left stud edge to right stud edge. Assuming the studs are roughly the same distance from the corner, the angle is roughly 45 degrees. Take that measurement and lay it out on the 2x material. Bevel cut the ends noting that the marked lines are the long edge on the material. This is dirt simple. And you only have to be "close" on the angle.

Now, if its not 45 degrees, it still simple. Just need to measure or calculate the angles. An adjustable bevel gauge is your friend. Lay it out on the floor and set your bevel. It will be the same angle all the way up. If your studs aren't perfectly plumb, the cross ties won't be the same length, but the angle won't change. No measuring required.

[rwe2156]

If I'm reading it right, why not just a piece of 3/4 ply bevelled on each side?

Or leave it as is. Do you have to cover it?

After all, its a shop....... :-)

[EricU]

I want to cover the insulation, so leaving it isn't really an option.  And it used to be a particularly nasty collector of detritus.  I'm moving my metal lathe against that wall, so I don't want to collect a pile of metal chips in there. This is the only basement room that would be a legal bedroom, so I'd like to have it look halfway decent.  And I'm not a big fan of hanging things on the wall anyway.

I think I'm going to do a compromise with the ripped 2x4 vertically, and then 4 or 5 cross pieces just to make it harder to punch holes in it.  Since the vertical pieces should be square to the opening, I can just bridge that gap and toenail in some short boards.

[EricU]

well, if I had put the other studs in vertically, everything would be great. There is a little over a half inch difference in the width at the bottom and the top of the stud cavity.   I mixed my approach between ripping 2x4 on a 45 degree angle and bridging the gap with a 2x4.  I think it's going to be ok, I'm going to fudge the width of the 45 degree piece of drywall to the average width and I think this should work out.