Is 3/4" phenolic too thin for 3/8" router plate?

[aruuk]

I have an older bench dog 3/4" thick phenolic table with a 3 1/4 HP router under mounted. I would like to install a sturdy router plate in to the table and most of the higher rated plates are 3/8". The reason for installing the plate is allow the use of different sized holes in the smaller insert throat plate like the Incra magna lock system. The table came with one throat plate and the o.d. is not suitable for any existing solutions. Machining the the ledge in my phenolic table only leaves less than a 3/8" ledge holding the heavy router and plate since some allowance for leveling screw height must be maintained. One of the companies that sells the heavier plates suggested that the thin ledge may be insufficient support for the heavy router especially with larger bits.
I'm looking for opinions pro or con from folks with the phenolic tables.
Thanks in advance for your help.

[JGrout]

A simple solution if you are concerned is to just build a frame around the bottom to beef the top in the area of the plate up 

a two inch frame with screws and glue effectively stiffens the hole perimeter  tremendously

[Steve N]

A simple solution if you are concerned is to just build a frame around the bottom to beef the top in the area of the plate up 

a two inch frame with screws and glue effectively stiffens the hole perimeter  tremendously

This ^^^^^^

Most of your work is going to be right side to left. Even just parallel strips of wood from underneath will add significant support where you need it. Just make sure you allow enough room for adjustments to be made, or an option to simply remove router and the insert as a unit to make adjustments away from the confines of the table, to a bench where you have full access. This requires you to know where you want the bit to be depth wise, but if you do it's much quicker to work like that than trying to bend under the table to guess where you need to move your hands while making height adjustments. Once height is correct, drop the router back into the table, and adjust the fence for depth of reveal.

[ez-duzit]

For my 3-1/2 hp router I built a router table out of an old cast iron table saw top, and mounted it to the side of my Unisaw. This method allows the use of the Unifence for the router table. The router mounts in a factory made mount which screws to the underside of the table; it does not hang from a portable base. The throat plate I fabricated from aluminum to fit the table saw top; the plate is removed completely for using my largest bits.

[Stwood_]

I just use the 1/4" aluminum plates from Rockler. I've acquired 4 of them now.
They handle the big routers

[Steve N]

For my 3-1/2 hp router I built a router table out of an old cast iron table saw top, and mounted it to the side of my Unisaw. This method allows the use of the Unifence for the router table. The router mounts in a factory made mount which screws to the underside of the table; it does not hang from a portable base. The throat plate I fabricated from aluminum to fit the table saw top; the plate is removed completely for using my largest bits.

I can see the router hanging under the wing, I cannot envision how the fence could be of any help there unless you have 8' long arms




Yet somehow I am not surprised

[ez-duzit]

I don't have a closeup, but you can see the table saw, the router and the fence. Use your imagination as to how the fence works with both table saw and router.