Sigma Power Select 10k
#10
*Edit - Sorry: I am looking at the Sigma Power Select II from Leevalley.

Here's what I'm planning to do, tell me if it won't work.

I use diamond stones now, ala Paul Sellers. I have them mounted on my alternate bench behind me.  After the Extra Fine diamond, I want to just follow it up with a 10k Sigma  

I can spritz and GO with the Sigma Power select 10K right?

I can just use my DMT course stone that I already have and use for establishing a new primary as the flattening stone for the Sigmaright?


tldr; I just want to add a 10k stone at the end of my diamond sharpening setup, good idea?
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#11
Shapton or Sigma?  You used both in your description.  Sigma stones in that range are 10,000  or 13,000 grit and the Shapton is 8000, 15,000, or 30,000 grit.  You could spritz and go with either one, but I personally think you'll get better results if you soak them for about 10 minutes prior to use.  Just spritzing doesn't help much with developing a slurry, so you are constantly going to need to re-spritz to keep the surface wet.  Otherwise you risk clogging up the surface with your swarf.  I wouldn't leave either stone continuously soaking.  YMMV.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#12
I bought Stu's famous 3 stone set: 1000, 6000 13000. For me, those are nice easy jumps. IIRC, DMT stones run 600, 1200, 8000. From what I read you will love the 10K stone but I would find it to be too much of a jump.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#13
(04-01-2017, 09:08 PM)cputnam Wrote: I bought Stu's famous 3 stone set:  1000, 6000 13000.  For me, those are nice easy jumps.  IIRC, DMT stones run 600, 1200, 8000.  From what I read you will love the 10K stone but I would find it to be too much of a jump.

Yes, my finest DMT is somewhere near 1200.
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#14
Are you getting good results going straight to a strop after the 1200 as Paul Sellar demonstrates?
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#15
Yes, on plain domestic lumber.  I sometimes have issues with hard maple or maybe on some sections of QSWO.  Not knots or anything, just normal figure.

At a LN hand tool event I tried a LN #3 from their 8000 stone in person, and it felt better than what I can currently get to.

But yes, I've finished many projects with just the 1200 to strop, with both the old stanley irons, and A2 LN, and pmv11.    I guess i'm just curious if, for $100 more, I could improve my results without much disruption to my current system.  Probably not worth it...
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#16
Yes, you can improve your sharpening system, but not by adding the 10K Sigma (which is an excellent stone. I have one). If you are using green compound to finish, which I do recommend, then I would suggest the Sigma 6000 as a step between the 1200 DMT and the green compound.

Use the green compound on either planed hardwood or MDF, not leather.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#17
Derek, why do you recommend using a hardened surface instead of a leather strop? Just wondering the thought process behind the idea, because when I use the leather it seems to work just fine. I can only presume that the leather isn't dead flat and could cause cupping on the outer edges of the iron as you press down on the iron.
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#18
(04-03-2017, 04:15 AM)Dayle1960 Wrote: Derek, why do you recommend using a hardened surface instead of a leather strop?  Just wondering the thought process behind the idea, because when I use the leather it seems to work just fine.  I can only presume that the leather isn't dead flat and could cause cupping on the outer edges of the iron as you press down on the iron.

Hi Dayle

Yes, the leather deforms and will dub the edge. A hard and flat surface, such as MDF, will not do so. Effectively, you are creating a sharpening stone. Save the leather strops for shaving and carving chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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