Jointing first face with thickness planer

[TGW]

When planing boat planking and the like where equal thickness is more important than straightness there is no need to face joint but parts for furniture and doors and windows always have to be jointed on two sides an then planed to equal thickness.

Those who don't do tghis cannot possibly use rough sawn timber. The only affordable yet good sort of timber.

I would never ever want to be without a 24" jointer in my part time workshop.

[jlanciani]

Hasen't been back in almost four days, smells like a troll to me.

[JGrout]

hard to tell these days, but I rather imagine that may be the case with no follow up response

[Steve N]

Hasen't been back in almost four days, smells like a troll to me.

Nah, look at his post history, has asked questions several times that are mix of newer, but also coming back to woodworking. Probably just doesn't live here like some people, who me?????

[Stwood_]

Some of ya'll have a PO Box here.

[Steve N]

A recliner, and a TV.

[Stwood_]

  Armchair computer control......

[Alan in little Washington]

AHill hit the nail on the head- the infeed and outfeed tables on a planer are coplanar, while the outfeed table and cutter (TDC) on a jointer are colinear.  If you have a board that curves end-to-end (like a banana) it will still be curved after planing.  Only a jointer will flatten a long board in the direction of the grain.  That is especially important if you are making the stiles for fame and panel cabinet and passage doors.

As was mentioned, if you have a lot of bend in a long board, you will lose a significant amount of thickness but your board will be flat, end-to-end.

[Steve N]

if you have a lot of bend in a long board,

Alan not disagreeing with what you said, but the chunk above is a learning moment.

If you have a long board with a lot of bend in it, cutting that board into shorter boards will almost certainly remove much of the bend, allowing you to flatten it out without removing near as much stock, thus giving you thicker boards. You will however have one less long board, if it is an extremely tall project.

Fact for free. Standardly graded lumber will be 8' long. How many times do you really need an 8' long piece of stock for even a tallish cabinet? Always cut your pieces to just a few inches longer than needed, unless they are less than 2' long before prepping stock and your yield will always be better. Pieces 2' long or less are less safe to use on a Jointer, Planer, and sometimes a TS. Prepping them at a 2' length still gives you plenty of usable stock, in safe to machine sizes. Cut it to length after prepping with a TS sled, or on a chop saw.

Doubling back, if your stock makes a tight flat uniform stack, IOW it has zero bend, twist, cup, or other defect, you can prep happily full length. It does sometimes occur

[rwe2156]

This is real simple, guys.  The thicker the stock, the shorter the board, and the straighter the board starting out, the less need for face jointing.

Many a piece of wood has been ruined by guys thinking they can use their planer as a jointer.

The biggest challenge is finding your flat board not so flat the next morning.  :-)