Accurately setting my drill press fence

[Phil Thien]

Much of the work I do involves fairly accurately setting my drill press fence.  I've typically used spacers between the fence and the bit, but that involves keeping track of a lot of spacers or having to always make new ones.

So today I made an acrylic indicator for my 1" wide Starrett rules.

The indicator has shoulders that hug the edges of the rule.  The embedded magnet provides just enough pull that I can slide the indicator with finger pressure, but it stays put once I remove pressure.

To use it, I lock the quill so the bit is just a little above my rule.  As I slide the rule under the bit and towards the fence, the bit "pushes back" against the indicator, sliding it along the rule.

Once the rule is pushed all the way to the fence, I can remove the rule and read the indicator.  I can make small adjustments to my fence and take another reading very quickly.

In the pictures, I want the 1/4" bit centered 1" from the edge of my board.  So I need the indicator to read 1-1/8" (1" + 1/2 the diameter of my bit).

Hopefully this will save me a bunch of time cutting spacers or looking-around for spacers I've already cut but later used for something else (I do that all the time).

This should also come in handy for checking depths of grooves, etc.  I have a full compliment of calipers but honestly don't always want values in .001".  The advantage of this sliding indicator is that I can read any scale I prefer on my rule.

I made mine on my CNC router but no reason someone couldn't make something similar from wood.

(Just because I know someone will ask, the other side of my unit with the slot and offsets in the plastic let me read the center line to the chuck using 1/8" drill rod, handy for when I'm working with metric bits or bits with funny diameters.)

   

   

   

[blackhat]

A combination square with the blade zeroed on the stock.  Set the stock against the fence and read the point of a spade bit on the rule.  Give the bit a half turn to ensure the bit is straight and split the difference if required.  Lock the fence and replace the spade bit.

[Phil Thien]

A combination square with the blade zeroed on the stock.  Set the stock against the fence and read the point of a spade bit on the rule.  Give the bit a half turn to ensure the bit is straight and split the difference if required.  Lock the fence and replace the spade bit.

My little indicator eliminates the need to crane my neck and deal with parallax, though.

Plus I can measure w/ whatever bit I intend to use.  And that is handy because in your example above, the spade bit may be substantially longer than (for example) a 1/16" bit.  So I might not have enough quill to do my initial setup with a spade bit and then change-out to a 1/16" bit.

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with your method, I just wanted to get a little closer a little faster with a little less work.

[fredhargis]

That's pretty cool, well done!

[ez-duzit]

I center the bit on the workpiece mark, lock the quill, then bring the fence up to the workpiece and clamp it.

[daddo]

Your way is more accurate I'm sure.

I eyeball the distance (sometimes measure), hold the pencil in my spot and draw a line using the edge as a guide.

Those staggered holes represents "hand made".


I don't have a fence- I repent.

 When I do need all holes to be the same, I clamp a single or double stop down on the DP.

[Phil Thien]

I experimented with this some more last night.

When it comes to narrower bits, they can deflect enough from the grip of the magnet that my method needed to change.

What seems to work well with any bit size is:  (1) Chuck bit into press and run it to make sure it is running true. (2) Set the indicator to the desired point on the scale (basically desired distance + 1/2 D of the bit I'm using).  (3) Lightly push the rule so the indicator is just touching a flute of the bit.  (4) Hold the rule steady with one hand while sliding the fence up to the end of the rule with the other.

It goes fast and is amazingly accurate.

Kinda fun to horse around with.

[daddo]

If you're drilling in metals, you might try and start your dimple or hole with one of these; https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-CEN...B000N216SU

[Phil Thien]

If you're drilling in metals, you might try and start your dimple or hole with one of these;  https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-CEN...B000N216SU

I've had good luck drilling in metals. Using spacers with a 1/2" drill rod has allowed me to set the fence with a high degree of accuracy. I wonder whether my magnetic gizmo will work as well.

[Cecil]

A combination square with the blade zeroed on the stock.  Set the stock against the fence and read the point of a spade bit on the rule.  Give the bit a half turn to ensure the bit is straight and split the difference if required.  Lock the fence and replace the spade bit.

I use my router centering pin.  Much more accurate than a spade bit.

I also use 1-2-3 blocks and brass set up gauges (which Phil is trying to avoid).

I do like Phil's idea.  I may try it.