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Hello,
I'm having a hard time confirming this, and since I'm a forum guy I thought...why not ask here?
I just want a simple hand router, but it seems I need a table setup so I can fit a 3/4" roundover bit. Am I right, and can you recommend a budget router?
Thank you!
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06-26-2017, 09:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-26-2017, 09:41 PM by Steve N.)
(06-26-2017, 09:10 PM)ThatDudeThere Wrote: Hello,
I'm having a hard time confirming this, and since I'm a forum guy I thought...why not ask here?
I just want a simple hand router, but it seems I need a table setup so I can fit a 3/4" roundover bit. Am I right, and can you recommend a budget router?
Thank you!
Hi Welcome to the forum.
Routers have many uses, and sometimes that could cause some confusion. Before spending I would suggest doing a lot of reading, and watching You Tube videos. Any information you get will be valuable. You could start here
Routers in the USA will usually have either a 1/4" (light duty) or a 1/2" (heavier duty) collet. This is where the shank of the bit fits into the router. Lower cost lighter weight routers usually use a 1/4" shank on the bit. Sometimes they tend to break in attempts to use them like a heavier 1/2" shanked bit. The 3/4" roundover is what they call the bits profile, and round overs can be small 1/4" up through 1 1/2", probably bigger. A lot of us like Whiteside brand bits, and they guy who owns this place "Holbren" is a member here. He goes by Brian in Sunny Florida, and is nice enough to offer us a discount.
I hope that answers your immediate questions. Before buying a router you will probably want to figure out if you will be routing on a table, or hand held. Could be some differences in router models. Also give some thought to what you want to spend.
Below is a 1/4" shanked roundover bit with a 3/4" radius. It also has a bearing mounted on the top so it can ride against a pattern, or solid edge.
I'm not suggesting you buy a bunch of bits from MLCS, they are not the best quality, but darned if they don't have a bunch of information, and short videos to explain a lot on their site.
MLCS main page
MLCS video education page
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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06-26-2017, 11:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-26-2017, 11:01 PM by ThatDudeThere.)
Thanks so much for your reply. Ok so re-watched the video guide for the bits I need, and realize I misheard them. I need a 3/8" and not 3/4", so I think it's a non issue. I'm prefer a simple hand held router. I read a review of a dewalt (I think) that said the hole in the plate was not big enough for a 3/4" roundover bit. They said that they had to buy a new $30 plate for it to fit. This is what led me to ask the question.
I'm getting deal breaker reviews that make sense on every brand and model I read about, but I'm just going to have to go with something. I was liking the Craftsman $59, and they are priced the same as Harbor Freight for non plunge routers. Dewalt ect are double the price. You're making me think I would rather have one with a 1/2" collet, even though it's probably overkill for my project. My first project will be building a home subwoofer box out of mdf. I'll also be using a flush trim bit, and a straight flute bit, along with a Jasper circle jig. Any suggestions for routers?
Sorry to mess up on my first post.
Thanks again!
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(06-26-2017, 11:00 PM)ThatDudeThere Wrote: ...I was liking the Craftsman $59, and they are priced the same as Harbor Freight for non plunge routers...
That is the bottom of the barrel.
Wood is good.
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Craftsman is worth trying, good stuff for less.
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I have a couple Bosch and a couple Dewalt routers. They've done fine for my hobbiest usage. If you are looking for something much cheaper, I'd consider a Craftsman router well before Harbor Freight.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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Brand choices aside, I suggest you get one with a 1/2" collet, most of them also include a 1/4" collet (or some cheesy adapter) to allow you to use both sizes. After you use it a while, you'll be ready to buy your next one....it's kind of a disease.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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(06-27-2017, 02:03 AM)collins45 Wrote: Craftsman is worth trying, good stuff for less.
The current craftsman routers are the best they have ever sold. Real collets,soft start,leds and even a smoother plunge base than other brands. Just a cheap stiff cord on them.
Milwaukee is my favorite but i stock up on craftsman ones now as they are great for the price. Just get the right one. The aluminum bodied ones with variable speed and preferably the kit with the plunge base.
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As others have said, go with a router that comes with both a 1/4" and a 1/2" collet. And definitely get a variable speed model. My $80 Sears router has to be a true value leader and I have nothing but good things to say about it. 2-1/4 HP, both 1/4" and 1/2" collets, variable speed, good ergonomics; can't ask for more. A reasonable quality router will last for 20 years or more for most hobby woodworkers so it's better to spend a little more up front. I have a PC 690 that's almost 30 years old still going strong.
The plastic plate on the bottom of the router is removable and replaceable. I often make new base plates out of 1/4" Melamine or 1/2" plywood to fit whatever special need I might have at the time. The key factor in how large a bit the router can turn is determined by the opening in the aluminum or magnesium router base. I think most any mid sized router will spin a bit of at least 3" diameter.
John
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Hitachi M12V is another good budget router.
Bosch 1617 is a hard economical router to beat though.
If you have a router now, cut a whole in some MDF and temp mount it and use it. Clamp a jointed hardwood straight board in place for a fence and cut a semi circle our for the bit or use a router bit and carefully bury the bitwide enough to allow the 3/4's bearing to pass through. Double stick on some hardboard on the outfeed of fence to match the material you will remove from the face if full face is routed away.
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