Contributing factors to Bandsaw drift?

[jteneyck]

"Motor belt not aligned properly with wheel pulley". 

Never heard that one before.

John

[Steve N]

"Motor belt not aligned properly with wheel pulley". 

Never heard that one before.

John

Generally that, or just a poor belt will set up an earthquakes worth of shaking. Machine is practically dancing across the floor, until that gets fixed you aren't going to make many accurate cuts.

I won a HF bandsaw in a card game, figured what the heck. It came with a hard rubber belt, that would not roll, it bounced. I swapped it with a good quality link belt, problem A was gone, and allowed me to set it up. Other problem was set screws (thumbscrews) on blade guides were crap, and had all kinds of movement, guides wouldn't stay still. Bought some good quality thumbscrews with consistent threads, and it's actually as accurate as any of the old Delta's I've had through the years.

[Chipper_Jr]

What model Mini Max?
Does it have flat or crowned tires?

[jgourlay]

How do you measure wheel alignment?  I don't see any way at all to, say, get a long straight edge across both whiles simultaneously.

[jgourlay]

Chipper: MM16, flat.

[MichaelMouse]

How do you measure wheel alignment?  I don't see any way at all to, say, get a long straight edge across both whiles simultaneously.

Wheel alignment is about surge, not direction.  Direction problems are blade qualities or lateral blade containment measures.  If constant direction - blade.  Random drift -operator/guides.  I use a single pivot for resaws, so I just compensate for the angle and press on.

[jteneyck]

How do you measure wheel alignment?  I don't see any way at all to, say, get a long straight edge across both whiles simultaneously.

Yes, put a straight edge across both wheels.  Generally, you have to take the table off to do that.  There may still be some of the frame in the way; the way to get around that is to use a piece of plywood and cut out whatever is required to fit over those obstructions so the flat portions can rest on the wheels.  You will likely have to tip the upper wheel, too, in order to get it parallel with the lower one. 

Check the alignment on both sides of center. What you want is for the straight edge to contact both wheels where it crosses them, top and bottom, on both sides of center.

If it's a MM16 I would think the wheel alignment would be fine unless you bought the machine used and someone before you did something stupid.  But it never hurts to check. 

As for single point fences, my opinion is they are used because the operator has been unsuccessful in getting the blade to cut straight and parallel with the miter slot.  Same for "Driftmaster" type fences.  Anyone who has used a BS that cuts straight and parallel with the miter slot would never tolerate less, and there's no reason to.  

John

[jgourlay]

Huh...maybe I do need to check while alignment as I do get now noticeably more 'wobble/flap' in the blade.

[jteneyck]

Wobble/flap is more likely due to a blade with a poor weld or kink.  How does it behave when you turn it by hand?  If you see it jump forward/backward or pulse sideways then the blade is the problem. 

Did your saw ever cut straight and parallel with the miter slot?

John

[jgourlay]

I'll try turning it by hand.  For that matter, I have a dial indicator on a magnetic base that I can run up against the side of the blade, turn, and see if there is a warp.

The saw never cut truly parallel to the miter slot, but was always well within the adjustment range of the fence.  Only in the last couple of years has it seemed to degrade.