Activated my Saw Stop brake

[Steve N]

Pressure treated lumber is OFTEN stored outdoors at lumber yards and can be quite wet when you get it.

Pressure-treated lumber is wood that has been immersed in a liquid preservative and placed in a pressure chamber. That is why it is always wet. In some instances it could be weeks, to months before it isn't wet when you cut it open. If your lumber yard/BORG is a busy one with a lot of stock turnover it should always still be wet when you buy it. If your store doesn't move stock, you can tell this because of all of the pretzels they will have.

"During the pressure-treating process, the wood preservatives are forced deep into the wood. The treating solution consists mostly of water. Because the treated wood absorbs a significant amount of water, depending on your location, it may take several weeks for the wood to dry"

Source

[Handplanesandmore]

Never ever would I use any blade that was involved in a Saw Stop triggering. 

Agreed. I wouldn't trust a sawblade technician on that. My eye or face is worth more than a couple hundred dollars. Same for my fingers and wasn't that why we got the SS in the first place?

The best option out there is not to cause an activation for ANY reasons. I haven't when I started using a SS 11 years ago. If you did trigger it with a contact of your hand or palm, etc., buy yourself a beer and congratulate yourself for a wise decision made x months or years ago and get a new blade. I would not fool around with a blade damaged. I also have never used a non-SS tablesaw since.

Simon

[Mandrake]

A bit of a sideways question: what would you make out of a pressure treated 2 x 6 that would lead you to use an expensive WW blade it?

[Richard D.]

The moral of the story is...You shouldn't have been using a WW2 to rip anything let alone pressure treated. An average 24 tooth rip blade would work better and not dull your good blade. Use the lockout for laminate, plex, pressure treated...anything that might cause a false trigger.