08-14-2017, 10:25 AM
(07-30-2017, 09:58 PM)K. L McReynolds Wrote: Can the panel wiring be extended? Yes.
SHOULD the panel wiring be extended? Whole 'nother situation. Connections should all be soldered and each solder joint insulated---shrink tubing is a good product. But, joints should be staggered(on each end) so no two joints are side by side. And the entire length of extended wiring protected in a casing and secured to a wall/machine side/etc. Why? Vibration will rub the insulation away and create a short circuit. The best result will be a burnt out control panel, the worst, a fire and probable home damage.
(08-12-2017, 07:21 AM)Pirate3 Wrote: I've done a number of Rube jobs, that worked fine.
If the dryer just has a knob to turn for drying time, and a button to push to start, like some dryers, how about this.
Make some wood "pillow blocks" to hold wood dowels. Have one dowel set to push the button, and the other to turn the timer knob. Make a wood knob for the timer dowel.
Some timer knobs have a raised rib on the face to help turning. The dowel could be notched at the end to fit over the rib. (Back in 1979 I notched the end of an old pool cue to turn the channel selector knob on a tv, so I could change channels from the couch, while recovering from 5 broken ribs and a ruptured spleen.)
If the rear panel is angled up, you may be able to raise up the back to get a better angle for the dowels to work better.
You could even mount the pillow blocks and dowels on a piece of plywood, and lay it on a piece of nonskid material on top of dryer, so you wouldn't even have to drill holes in the dryer. Keep's getting better and better!
Seems like a fun, easy Rube, that would work.
If you were local, I would lend a hand.
How about a thread on successful Rubes?
That's a great idea. I'm going to take another look at the dryer controls.
For the moment, I have the best wife in the world.
