Success in flattening a warped door?

[atgcpaul]

I laid up 4 shopsawn veneered slab doors on BB ply. The doors are 30" tall × 11" wide each. One door seems to be warped along the diagonal by about 1/8". Since it's an inset application, the warp affects how the door looks next to the neighbor as well as how it sits in the opening.

The door is completely finished and mounted. I don't think the wife has noticed yet but it bugs me. It's a little proud of the frame in one corner and more inset at the bottom.

Any way to salvage this or just live with it? I'm thinking the only thing I can do is to place some blocks at each of these corners and place a weight in the middle to bow it back to flat. However, I don't know if the veneer and the ridgid glue line of the plastic resin glue will allow that. However, the platen in my veneer bag (and the bench underneath) was flat to start so maybe the door will accept the opposite bow.

[ez-duzit]

Lay up another one being careful to choose a flat piece of BB.

[JGrout]

I laid up 4 shopsawn veneered slab doors on BB ply.  The doors are 30" tall × 11" wide each.  One door seems to be warped along the diagonal by about 1/8".  Since it's an inset application, the warp affects how the  door looks next to the neighbor as well as how it sits in the opening.

The door is completely finished and mounted.  I don't think the wife has noticed yet but it bugs me.  It's a little proud of the frame in one corner and more inset at the bottom.

Any way to salvage this or just live with it?  I'm thinking the only thing I can do is to place some blocks at each of these corners and place a weight in the middle to bow it back to flat.  However, I don't know if the veneer and the ridgid glue line of the plastic resin glue will allow that.  However, the platen in my veneer bag (and the bench underneath) was flat to start so maybe the door will accept the opposite bow.

you could rip a slot in the back corner to corner install a cleat then re veneer the back 

It works most of the time 

Nothing you suggested however will 

Joe

[Jasen]

I have had random success flattening panels and such.
Think steam bending, w/o the steam.
I place a block, board, stick (what ever is best suited to the given situation) under the panel at the low point, then add weight, clamps or straps to pull the high points down and bend the panel past flat slightly more then the original warping. Then let it sit for a day or two or three. A warm humid enviroment can also help.
Keep in mind, you can also reverse your situation and end up warping it the other way, not that have any real world experience with that happening 

[Steve N]

My experience is, if it is layered Ply and it goes South, it stays South. My best doors were a solid wood frame, covered front and back with a skin, which could be plywood provided there are plenty of attachment points to keep it from bulging off. Clamping is always fun, usually involves a lot of full 5 gallon buckets. Reading again I see you have a large vac bag, that can help. Think of plywood 2 ways, it's always a series of thin solid panels running opposite directions. Take 4 pieces and stand them up, with only themselves to hold them together. Given time they will twist, cup,and go several directions. Now attach any of them solidly to a wall with screws, nails, whatever. As many as you attach solidly to a frame/wall, they will stay flat, and well attached to the wall.

That's all I got, except plywood sammiches hardly ever stay as they started without help from a solid form. Unite the solid form to the plywood in a solid way, and you will retain both from doing what they usually want to do = move.

Like Joe suggested without using the word solid frame, he was talking about that after the fact. It's best to just do it from the start, a lot less fixing is ever involved.

[jteneyck]

This is one reason I use MDF for veneered panels for non structural applications. MDF starts flat and stays flat.