(09-13-2017, 09:05 PM)hbmcc Wrote: Your drill bit is fine, but easier to use if you put a handle on it. I think the current fashion is to use small diameter rods, smaller than the usual store display and historic diameters. They just need to be smooth and hard, i.e., drill bits. Going for a spare 3/16 (roughly) to 1/4 is perfect, as long as there is an inch or so of shank to work with.
Pick your favorite wood and drill away. Use the glue that gave you the most grief in the past.
I have a couple of the Sargent versions of the #12 and like them. One metallic sole, one wooden sole.
But I like my vintage Stanley #112 better. Japaning looks like crap, but works great.
And several years ago I got the opportunity to pick up a LN version of the #112 second-hand at a bargain price. Still like the Stanley #112 better (but I put a toothed blade in the LN and it works slick that way).
I prefer a long, round burnisher over the shorter types.
Have a few different ones but usually grab one made by Crown and probably got it 10 years ago from Woodcraft. I've since heard complaints about them being too soft but mine works great.
I prefer the longer ones because I can both press and draw out during the stroke. This is the technique that works for me. No need to press very hard as the drawing out action does some of the work of turning the burr.
I've experimented with the shorter LN burnisher at their shows, works fine but more expensive (their branded card scrapers are also among the hardest I've tried). Also tried the Woodcraft house branded one, priced in between Crown and LN and it works fine.
For some scrapers I've made from old, kinked handsaw blades, the venerable back-of-the-gouge works fine. But newer mass-produced scrapers, they tend to be harder and the gouge backs may not be hard enough.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
