Whiteside tongue and groove set.

[Cooler]

I have a whiteside tongue and groove router bit set.  

Can I use that for shaker cabinet frames?

I usually use 1/2" ply for the panel.  I reduce the thickness to fit the rails and stiles.  It feels like a more substantial door that way.  So I can adjust the panel thickness to fit the tongue and groove thickness requirement.

A new shaker cabinet set is $92.00 and I'd hate to spend that if the tongue and groove will work.

[Stwood_]

Sure, as long as the set will cut 3/8" deep. (Standard panel depth)

[Cooler]

Sure, as long as the set will cut 3/8" deep. (Standard panel depth)

I will have to check the dimensions.  

When I've made these doors on the table saw I cut to 3/4" depth, which gives a much stronger joint.

I think I will make a sample and test it for strength.

[Brian in sunny FL]

I have dimensional drawings on the website if it helps.  As an example, here is the 3375 tongue and groove bit.

https://www.holbren.com/Whiteside_Machine_3375

[Cooler]

I have dimensional drawings on the website if it helps.  As an example, here is the 3375 tongue and groove bit.

https://www.holbren.com/Whiteside_Machine_3375

The glue up with have just 3/8" of face grain to face grain surface.  Is that enough?  

I think my other frame and panel bit sets are closer to 3/4".

Thanks for the drawings.  It is very helpful.

Also, has anyone made these doors using a floating tenon instead of the fixed tenon?  It looks way more efficient.

[JGrout]

The glue up with have just 3/8" of face grain to face grain surface.  Is that enough?  

I think my other frame and panel bit sets are closer to 3/4".

Thanks for the drawings.  It is very helpful.

Also, has anyone made these doors using a floating tenon instead of the fixed tenon?  It looks way more efficient.

It has proven to be enough in about probably a few million doors coming out of production shops across the world for a good many years 

3/8" has been the standard for a very long time

[Cooler]

It has proven to be enough in about probably a few million doors coming out of production shops across the world for a good many years 

3/8" has been the standard for a very long time

Thanks for the information.  My kitchen cabinets (from the 1990s) have longer than that, possibly because of the radius on the inside.

Cooler.

[Stwood_]

A lot of the older commercial made cabs used to be 1/2", but I haven't run across any in quite a while.

With 3/8", the stile usually splits before the joint gives up. I've repaired/replaced a couple of the doors I've made over the years when a customer would fall into one of the doors while it was open, pushing it back hard enough they broke the hinge side style.

[Cooler]

Thanks for the replies.

So the only difference between a shaker cabinet set and a tongue and groove set is the thickness of the panel it will accept?

Then why is the shaker cabinet set twice the price of the tongue and groove set?  I'm pretty sure I spent about $55.00 for the tongue and groove set and the shaker set is $94.00.

[JGrout]

Thanks for the replies.

So the only difference between a shaker cabinet set and a tongue and groove set is the thickness of the panel it will accept?

Then why is the shaker cabinet set twice the price of the tongue and groove set?  I'm pretty sure I spent about $55.00 for the tongue and groove set and the shaker set is $94.00.

Not sure what set you are looking at but there is a shaker set that has a slight 5 degree angle in the groove cuts