Does anyone have experience with epoxy finishes?

[Dave Diaman]

Here are the two brands I have used and had good results with. As has already been said I have only ever seen these as pour on finishes. If it were me I would fill the voids with epoxy and use a traditional finish on top of that. I use that method when I work with crotch wood a lot.

http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/tarbender/

[sheriezee]

Have you bought it? If yes, pls specify the brand? I'm also planning to buy one.

[FloridaRetiree]

There are a lot of uses and advantages to two-part epoxies; and a lot of cure all mythologies.

I can't imagine it for finishing since it is generally so soft.

For finishing, you may want to investigate the cross-linked lacquers.

This is the brand I have used for decades. Matter of fact, when I had my shop the owner (think his name was Eric) gave me free gallons for testing his latest formulations when he was starting out.

The red oak desk at which I am currently sitting is finished in it with no degradation of the built-up hard matte gloss acrylic surface. And please believe it has been through a lot with no special coddling in the last 20-some years.

http://hydrocote.com/our-products.htm

Hope this is of some help.

BTW, back then it was meant to be sprayed on. I used a HVLP system.
Don't know if that it still true?

[FloridaRetiree]

Another thing we must never forget:

Wood is both hygroscopic and anisotropic, which is most critical when thinking about joinery, but also about the reactive properties of finishing chemicals.

[badwhiskey]

So, just to close this out.  I posted this in Finishing, but I thought I'd repeat it here because this is where I got the answer to my question.

Based on Dave Diaman's recommendation, I selected this finish: US Composites Kleer Koat Table Top

This finish comes with excellent, detailed instructions which should be followed RELIGIOUSLY.  Do not try and scrape the last bits out of the mixing bowl.  It won't dry properly.  Don't watch YouTube videos and mix and match applications instructions.  Also, epoxy finishes make an unholy mess.  I thought I was prepared for this, but it really is something.  It went through the tarp I laid down.  I ruined a pair of sneakers having to walk in the messy run off.  You've been warned!

Epoxy finishes go on like nothing else.  You basically pour on what seems to be much more finish than you need, and roughly smear it over the piece.  It will then flow and settle into a glass like finish.  This was my second mistake, trying to skimp with the amount.  You need to go all in and follow the quantities recommended in the instructions.  Yes, its "wasteful", but better than having to order more like I did!

You'll need to "pop" air bubbles either with a heat gun or torch.  I found that I could let the bubble form for 10 minutes or so, pop them, walk away for 10 minutes, pop some more, take another break, for about 3 or 4 rounds until the epoxy sets up.

In my application, the epoxy flowed over the top and dripped off the underside making major stalactites underneath.  These I was able to belt sand off.

So here is the distressed chestnut top as I purchased it:


You can see the deep cracks and flaws that make me leery of just using poly.  The whole thing was splintery as well.  I selected the epoxy to fully stabilize the piece.  I put a seal coat on the underside and used masking table to keep the epoxy for pour through the many flaws.

And here is the final product:



Note, I did not use any stain.  I don't know why the table darkened so much.  (I didn't make the chairs)

[Bill Holt]

Oh my gosh!  That is beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Arlin Eastman]

Thanks for all of the replies, they were very helpful.   barryvabeach, that's almost exactly the situation I'm in so I'll look into that product.  Its very handy that is available on Amazon.  And good to know that West Systems is tricky, because that's the only name I know.

Frank

I have a friend who does this all the time and he has no problems.  One thing if you get bubbles use a propane torch to heat them out and they will come up to the surface.

Here is what he uses

https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1077-A...tions.aspx

The above is for longer open time and he uses this on big projects of 2 gallons or more

https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1045-A...Clear.aspx

This one above he uses for small tables of up to one gallon

Also make sure you put bow ties in the wood so it will not separate more.


Here is his big project


[attachment=5214]


and his small project


[attachment=5215]


These are all done in the last month but he has done over 200 of them

[BaileyNo5]

badwhiskey, thanks for the before/after shots.  Your tabletop turned out very nice.  I just acquired some barn wood and was thinking of making a table top from it.  The problem is this:  my better half likes the barn wood look, but won't tolerate a top full of cracks and splits that will trap food - she wants something that is easy to wipe down.  I've been thinking of a table top epoxy, and you just showed me how that might turn out - thanks!  Not sure I'll do the dining table with the barn wood, but might do a coffee table instead.

It does not surprise me that it darkens the wood significantly.  I built a kayak with West Systems, and it darkens the wood as well.  I had no issues with the application, but I followed the instructions to the letter and had some expert advice to help me along.

[Dave Diaman]

So, just to close this out.  I posted this in Finishing, but I thought I'd repeat it here because this is where I got the answer to my question.

Based on Dave Diaman's recommendation, I selected this finish: US Composites Kleer Koat Table Top

This finish comes with excellent, detailed instructions which should be followed RELIGIOUSLY.  Do not try and scrape the last bits out of the mixing bowl.  It won't dry properly.  Don't watch YouTube videos and mix and match applications instructions.  Also, epoxy finishes make an unholy mess.  I thought I was prepared for this, but it really is something.  It went through the tarp I laid down.  I ruined a pair of sneakers having to walk in the messy run off.  You've been warned!

Epoxy finishes go on like nothing else.  You basically pour on what seems to be much more finish than you need, and roughly smear it over the piece.  It will then flow and settle into a glass like finish.  This was my second mistake, trying to skimp with the amount.  You need to go all in and follow the quantities recommended in the instructions.  Yes, its "wasteful", but better than having to order more like I did!

You'll need to "pop" air bubbles either with a heat gun or torch.  I found that I could let the bubble form for 10 minutes or so, pop them, walk away for 10 minutes, pop some more, take another break, for about 3 or 4 rounds until the epoxy sets up.

In my application, the epoxy flowed over the top and dripped off the underside making major stalactites underneath.  These I was able to belt sand off.

So here is the distressed chestnut top as I purchased it:


You can see the deep cracks and flaws that make me leery of just using poly.  The whole thing was splintery as well.  I selected the epoxy to fully stabilize the piece.  I put a seal coat on the underside and used masking table to keep the epoxy for pour through the many flaws.

And here is the final product:



Note, I did not use any stain.  I don't know why the table darkened so much.  (I didn't make the chairs)

It turned out great. I'm really surprised at how much it darkened the wood too. I knew it would darken the wood but wow that was pretty extreme. The epoxy is a really tough finish but if you do get any scratches in it they can be buffed out as long as they are not too deep. It works the same way you would buff out a Corian counter top. You just start with around p220 and then work your way up to an automotive polishing compound. I have had some people tell me you can rough an are up and add additional material on top of it and it will level and fill but I can't say if that will work as I have never tried it.