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In the past when I would paint with latex paint and I got some of the paint on my skin it would wash off with the first shower.
The Behr Marquee paint with primer included has taken three showers to remove.
I have the remnants of the Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer on my skin for the past 5 days.
Conclusion:
Paint with primer is going to adhere better than just paint. But a real primer will adhere better than just the paint with primer.
But when to use primer when painting latex over latex?
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10-16-2017, 08:13 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-16-2017, 08:15 AM by Phil Thien.)
(10-16-2017, 08:10 AM)Cooler Wrote: In the past when I would paint with latex paint and I got some of the paint on my skin it would wash off with the first shower.
The Behr Marquee paint with primer included has taken three showers to remove.
I have the remnants of the Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer on my skin for the past 5 days.
Conclusion:
Paint with primer is going to adhere better than just paint. But a real primer will adhere better than just the paint with primer.
But when to use primer when painting latex over latex?
I think a good primer over glossy surfaces is helpful. That would include glossy paint. I've used deglosser then primer with good results.
I really like that Glidden Gripper primer. I think it is part adhesive. At least it acts like it is.
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There is no primer in paint/primer.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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(10-24-2017, 09:23 PM)Woodenfish Wrote: There is no primer in paint/primer.
That was the way it was explained to me as well...though it was from a paint store guy and I generally don't think they are any smarter than Skippy Stockboy at a box store. He went on to say that in their case, the pigment content was higher allowing them to market it as such (huh?). I remember back in the 70's this was a thing...it died pretty quickly then, but now seems to have taken root across all the brands.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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10-26-2017, 06:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-26-2017, 06:05 AM by Snipe Hunter.)
(10-25-2017, 06:00 AM)fredhargis Wrote: That was the way it was explained to me as well...though it was from a paint store guy and I generally don't think they are any smarter than Skippy Stockboy at a box store. He went on to say that in their case, the pigment content was higher allowing them to market it as such (huh?). I remember back in the 70's this was a thing...it died pretty quickly then, but now seems to have taken root across all the brands.
Higher end paint has more solids in it than lower end paint and it has more expensive reducers and fillers that enable it to flow better from the brush and builds higher. It looks nicer and goes on easier and covers better and loads up in the brush and roller better so you're spending more time with the brush on the wall and not dipping it in the bucket. Often times you can feel the difference just by lifting the cans, one is lighter, one is heavier. I don't like using cheap paint, you use more of it and it takes longer (more coats and strokes) to apply. Might as well spend the money and get the job done faster, and looking better with less paint and it wears better so it lasts longer. It's really noticeable most when cutting in trim. I'm doing windows and frames right now and imho, nice paint makes a world of difference.
The paint with primer in it has a clear adhesion promoter in it.... It's glue.
Something like this
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Just judging by how much harder it was to wash off my hands the paint/primer (Behr Marquee) has something added for improved adhesion.
The regular primer took four or five showers to get off my forearms; the paint/primer took two; the paint alone washed off immediately.
Obviously not scientific. But I trust this more than I would the salesman at the paint store.
I don't think Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore, etc. have an organized school for these people (It would be nice if they did).
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