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(10-28-2017, 10:04 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Point taken, Joe. Part of my problem is my shop space; it's really limited. I can't turn a door cross ways on my bench so the clamps can hang off the sides, nor do I really have another area large enough to set up something temporary. I did glue up one of the arched French doors at angle on the bench so that I could do it vertically, but then I laid the door down flat on my bench to make sure it was flat with no twist. The only way I can do that alone is with the Bessey type clamps.
If I do the glue up with the door flat I need to be able to tip the door up sideways to make sure the joints are tight and to wipe off the glue squeeze out. The only way I've figured out how to do that is with the Bessey type clamps.
I'm completely open to ideas on how to do this another way. I have plenty of pipe clamps. Currently, I use the Bessey clamps on the bottom, clamp up the door, tip it up to wipe off the glue squeeze out, tip it back down flat and then add pipe clamps on top, then check with a straight edge to make sure the door is flat across its width.
John
Why not use saw horses?
Also thinking of all of this again maybe all you really want is a way to buy more clamps and your wife maybe reading this. So if you need an excuses I will say,
BUY, BUY, BUY.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
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(10-28-2017, 02:24 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: John
If you have to clamp wood hard enough to close the gap then what you are creating is a very big problem of it wanting to crack at that joint or in another place.
I have DVDs from Sam Maloof, Tage Frid, Kelly Mehler, Roy Underhill, Frank, Klausz, and even Chris Schwarz all said the same thing in their DVDs.
I would be most happy to loan you the DVDs.
John is not attempting to close gaps in tightly milled stock, in fact the perpendicular joinery as the photo I posted above shows is kinda loose; not fall apart loose but also not beat it to death with a hammer tight. Like the baby bear porridge it is just right
Now when making edge grain joints as in gluing stock together edge to edge, that is an entirely different issue , one that demands lots of compression to accomplish tight seamless joints ( minimal glue lines.)
We have covered this in the past and this particular thread is not about edge joining anyway.
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(10-28-2017, 02:24 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: John
If you have to clamp wood hard enough to close the gap then what you are creating is a very big problem of it wanting to crack at that joint or in another place.
I have DVDs from Sam Maloof, Tage Frid, Kelly Mehler, Roy Underhill, Frank, Klausz, and even Chris Schwarz all said the same thing in their DVDs.
I would be most happy to loan you the DVDs.
Arlin, if you reread what I said earlier the issue here has nothing to do with needing clamps to close up poorly milled joints; rather, it's about a process the fits in with the limitations of my shop. Door joints are cross grain joints; they don't need high force to close. I prefer parallel jaw clamps because they are convenient - I can clamp up a door flat on my bench and then tip it up vertically to clean up the glue squeeze out. You can't do that with pipe clamps, at least not in a straight forward manner. And I don't have space to set up a pair of sawhorses even if I wanted to.
John
