Can someone cast a glance at my issue here? The short story is no water is coming out of my fridge. My quick investigation found that the water inlet solenoid valve was knocking and rocking wildly. So it got replaced. Problem still persisted, so last night I continued to investigate.
The problem I have determined is that the primary solenoid valve is getting a 120V signal for an instant, then dropping to a 60V signal (measured between terminals E & F). So something is splitting my voltage.
I dug a little further and saw this fridge as a secondary water solenoid valve as well. I unplugged those and measured voltage. I had zero volts between A & B and 4.5 V between C & D. I wedged a cup under the water dispenser (to hold it "on") and measured voltage at the secondary valve again. I was getting a constant 120V between A & B and 9V between C & D. Still getting the initial 120V signal and then 60V between E & F at the primary valve. So it seems that the water dispenser circuit is working correctly.
My next task is to manually cycle the ice maker to make it call for water. I believe I've read enough to jumper the terminals in the ice maker to make it signal for water.
I also plan to peel open that hunk of heat shrink where the tan & violet wires come together and test the diodes. I'm wondering if the diode on the tan wire for the ice maker failed, and that is splitting the voltage from the purple water dispenser wire and faulting the primary valve.
On an act of desperation last night I cut the tan wire between D and the heat shrink thinking I was going to physically prevent any voltage back feed. Didn't work. Still got 120 V at the primary valve for a second and then down to 60 V steady. So does this test disprove the failed diode theory?
Unit is a 3 y/o Whirlpool side by side I've had since new. Still runs fine, just have a little issue with the water circuit. HELP !
It seems I can't post a pdf link of the wiring diagram here, but it's the top link on this search for W10373993
The problem I have determined is that the primary solenoid valve is getting a 120V signal for an instant, then dropping to a 60V signal (measured between terminals E & F). So something is splitting my voltage.
I dug a little further and saw this fridge as a secondary water solenoid valve as well. I unplugged those and measured voltage. I had zero volts between A & B and 4.5 V between C & D. I wedged a cup under the water dispenser (to hold it "on") and measured voltage at the secondary valve again. I was getting a constant 120V between A & B and 9V between C & D. Still getting the initial 120V signal and then 60V between E & F at the primary valve. So it seems that the water dispenser circuit is working correctly.
My next task is to manually cycle the ice maker to make it call for water. I believe I've read enough to jumper the terminals in the ice maker to make it signal for water.
I also plan to peel open that hunk of heat shrink where the tan & violet wires come together and test the diodes. I'm wondering if the diode on the tan wire for the ice maker failed, and that is splitting the voltage from the purple water dispenser wire and faulting the primary valve.
On an act of desperation last night I cut the tan wire between D and the heat shrink thinking I was going to physically prevent any voltage back feed. Didn't work. Still got 120 V at the primary valve for a second and then down to 60 V steady. So does this test disprove the failed diode theory?
Unit is a 3 y/o Whirlpool side by side I've had since new. Still runs fine, just have a little issue with the water circuit. HELP !
It seems I can't post a pdf link of the wiring diagram here, but it's the top link on this search for W10373993
