How to cut angles on a table saw??

[Randy C]

I want to ask if my process for cutting miters on the table saw is the proper way or if there are other better ways.

As an example, suppose I have a board 3/4" thick, 5" wide and 20" long. Further suppose I need to cut a angle(miter) on one end of the board. I do not know what the degree of the cut is.

I have a tool that I use that has a wooden handle and a sliding ruler on one end and a thumbscrew. I don't know what this tool is called but I hold the ruler and handle across the angle that I want to reproduce on my board.

I then take the tool and put one side of the tool against the blade and the Wooden handle against my miter gauge And swivel the gauge against the handle. Then I put my board against the gauge and make the cut. Is this the proper way to make this type cut?

Thanks

[AgGEM]

I want to ask if my process for cutting miters on the table saw is the proper way or if there are other better ways.

As an example, suppose I have a board 3/4" thick, 5" wide and 20" long. Further suppose I need to cut a angle(miter) on one end of the board. I do not know what the degree of the cut is.

I have a tool that I use that has a wooden handle and a sliding ruler on one end and a thumbscrew. I don't know what this tool is called but I hold the ruler and handle across the angle that I want to reproduce on my board.

I then take the tool and put one side of the tool against the blade and the Wooden handle against my miter gauge And swivel the gauge against the handle. Then I put my board against the gauge and make the cut. Is this the proper way to make this type cut?

Thanks

Tool - Bevel gauge.
Method - Good. However, a 5 inch wide board on a stock miter gauge might creep on a miter cut. A fence on the gauge would help.
Safety - Watch you fingers!

[Steve N]

I think you are talking about a miter cut, as in a picture frame? Is that correct?

I have had good luck using one of these to find the exact angle's I needed to cut.



Then I set my miter gauge to that angle, using the gauge to make sure I am dead on. I also use the length stop on my miter gauge to make the cut the correct length. Then I run it through the blade. As Ag suggested holding very tight to your stock, or using a clamp will help the stock from sliding up the bar on your miter gauge, this is called creep, and just a little of it, and your corners may not match, especially if it is 4 or more corners.



That is a flat angle, most often done at 45* to form a square. However you can make angles partially on their edge called compound angles too (think of crown molding). As well as a large number of angles using more than 4 pieces.

[Randy C]

Thanks guys, and you are right, I did experience "creep" when I tried to make the cut. I was just making a "flat angle".

I would really like to have a good miter gauge like you have Steve to replace my crappy one that came with my craftsman zip code saw but I think the slots in my table are a different size and the Kreg wouldn't work.

[Randy C]

Thanks guys, and you are right, I did experience "creep" when I tried to make the cut. I was just making a "flat angle".

I would really like to have a good miter gauge like you have Steve to replace my crappy one that came with my craftsman zip code saw but I think the slots in my table are a different size and the Kreg wouldn't work.

good news. I checked my bar on my craftsman zip code saw and it is 3/8" by 3/4" so it looks like I will be able to get a better miter gauge. I think I am going for either the Kreg or the Osborne. The Incra is just too much $$

[Steve N]

if you find you do have a 3/8" x 3/4" bar on your Craftsman miter gauge, you can get an upgrade miter gauge, some of which offer a wide bar, usually with length adjustment, or if is is a well made gauge, you can make your own fence for it, plenty of info about them on the net.

Also if you think you will do a lot of miter cuts "The Dubby" is a great jig that allows for adjustment, and on a sled it makes taming creep easier.

Or Rockler makes a workable model that cots less, and sometimes is on sale.

Or you can make your own, again plenty online about doing that. All of them I am aware of offer the standard 3/8 x 3/4" bar. You can use a tight grained Quarter sawn wood like QS Maple to make a bar, out of QS wood it won't swell to become too tight or lose with seasonal humidity changes. Making your own, you can custom fit the bar to your miter slot. The closer it is, without hanging up, the more accurate it will be.

I couldn't find an excellent pic of QS maple end grain, here is one of White Oak. For a miter bar you want the grain as close to straight up and down as possible. You would cut off a piece that just fits the width of your miter slot, and then sand or plane it down until the height is perfect. Many folks will put a dime or 3 under the bar in their slot, and bring it down until the top of the bar is flush with the top surface of the table saw. That makes sure you never skid on the bottom of you groove. Your intention is to make it a guide, that doesn't wobble, having full depth isn't necessary to do that, but almost perfect width is important.



Maple that is pretty close, also lets you see the grain better.

[rwe2156]

Randy,

Overall, yes your method is ok.

Suggestions:

1) screw an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge so you can clamp the board this eliminates creep.
2) sneak up on the cut in order to fine tune the miter angle incrementally.
3) use a scrap piece of wood to dial it in.

The stock miter gauges on most tablesaws are innacurate. Even the one on my Jet, which was a fairly expensive saw, is basically useless.

I recommend either getting a good quality after market miter gauge (Incra or Jessem).

An alternative, and much cheaper way is use a sled. A miter can be done as easily as screwing a cleat at the appropriate angle or you can make an adjustable miter sled.