Arranging new shop - advice appreciated!
#21
(01-13-2018, 10:17 AM)Phil S. Wrote: Just to add to the confusion - the only thing that jumps out at me is having the miter saw on a wall less than 16' long.  Mine is on a long wall with the blade a little over 8' from the end.  It also lines up with the exit door.  Although I don't do it often that allows me to handle stock more than 16' long.  That came in handy when I was cutting siding or other long boards.

Phil

Good point.  Just a thought, and to each his own, but I never really resonated with the concept of a fixed miter station, perhaps because I've gravitated to handsaws and shooting boards, but I kept my box on a workmate for decades and used roller stands for support; recently I got a Ridgid collapsible stand on Black Friday, which has integral supports, and sets up in 15 seconds and you can position it anywhere in the shop as the job requires. It rolls away into the corner when collapsed and takes up maybe 2.5 square feet.  Don't get me wrong, we all know why we like fixed miter stations, they are sexy and versatile.  I guess I just like the idea of conserving wall space for other uses, and if you have a slider, more floor space as well.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#22
In two of my shops I've had my jointer tucked up tight to my tablesaw island.     It saves space and the work flow is great as you often joint and rip boards in that order.   I did have to remove the fence handle.   My outfeed table is a second tablesaw if the picture is confusing.

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#23
I forgot to add that bringing the wood rack back where the bench is shown now will make it easier to get the lumber from truck to rack without going around the table saw.
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#24
Thanks guys, this is exactly the advice I was looking for; much appreciated. I think everyone agrees the workbench should be close to the TS. At my previous space, it was directly behind the TS (but against a wall) and I could use it for support on long boards, so I’ll keep it that way.

 
"With a 14 ft width to work with, I would consider placing the right hand side of the table saw up against a wall."
That was how I had it in my previous shop. There's some large HVC duct and a dryer vent running along that 19'8" wall so I was trying to avoid trying to get lights up in that area.

"Some only use the miter station to rough cut their lumber before going further."
That is me. I use it mainly for rough cuts only so I may end up with something more portable and less sexy there so I have more wall space.
 
"You're somewhere in the 12' & 18' range for dust collection on these chip behemoths as well. Will your DC pull that far."
 Hopefully. It's not much further than it was previously. It was actually in another room adjacent.
 
"In two of my shops I've had my jointer tucked up tight to my tablesaw island. I did have to remove the fence handle."
I like that idea of placing it there. I may have enough room to try that.
 
"I forgot to add that bringing the wood rack back where the bench is shown now will make it easier to get the lumber from truck to rack without going around the table saw."
Excellent point!
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#25
Update. I would still swap the WB & WR. Now that I know more from reading your last post I would consider swapping the router table/band saw with the miter saw to keep the miter saw & the wood rack close together for stock breakdown. I use a cordless circular saw for breaking down long boards so I didn't think about using the miter saw for that.
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#26
I found my shop from a decade ago still online. It was 14 foot wide like yours.

http://www.shoptours.org/shop_tours/file...brink.html
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#27
When I had my 10x20 shop, I had the jointer and planer angled in relative to the 20' wall, spaced with care to allow maximum in feed and out freed for my needs, and room to walk past. Wish I had a picture.
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#28
Still trying to figure out how to connect my DC system to my table saw (or anything else next to it) when it's in the middle of the room. Guess it will have to run across the ceiling and come down vertically and somehow be out of the way.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#29
(01-13-2018, 08:51 PM)plharrison Wrote: Still trying to figure out how to connect my DC system to my table saw (or anything else next to it) when it's in the middle of the room. Guess it will have to run across the ceiling and come down vertically and somehow be out of the way.
Paul

I have mine closer to one wall, with maybe 2-3' between the end of my 52" fence and the wall, run the dust hose from the wall on the floor.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#30
My shop space is similar to yours. I've been in it for 25 years. My layout has changed probably a dozen times during that time as I slowly figured out what worked and what didn't. It has remained relatively stable for the last five or six years, so I guess I've settled on what works best for me in my space. My advice is to be flexible with your layout. Don't nail anything down permanent for a while; it will change. Put in lots of electrical outlets, both 110 and 220, so the electrical connectivity doesn't dictate your layout. My bench ended up in the middle of the room so I can work both sides of it, so I guess I agree with others whom advise that placement; but it may not work for you. Most of this is personal preference stuff. Just don't tie yourself down to a specific layout right away. Experiment. move your stuff around and find out what works best for you.

My $.02.

Hank
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