DW Table Saw

[Christmastaco]

Removed as this information is out of date

[TDKPE]

There's a number of photo entries of that saw on owwm.org.  http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/det...h=false&fl=  Couldn't find much dirty paper (original catalog listings or machine manuals, posted for all to use) for it, though.  But it looks heavily built.

I believe it has a 3/4" arbor.  That's a bit of a pain, as common 10" blades are bored 5/8".  Also, if it's really 3 hp, you don't want to run it on 120V power if you don't have to, as it'll be rated around 30A (on the motor's nameplate), with startups running to potentially over 200A.  Pretty uncommon for a motor that size to be rated 120V, but if it's old, anything is possible I suppose.

I probably wouldn't offer more than a couple of hundred.  3/4" arbor, not very common (parts will be almost impossible to find, unlike PM66's, Unisaws, General 350's, and so on).

[stav]

I would definitely ask about this saw over at OWWM.org. Just don't ask for a value. That is frowned upon there.

If the saw is in good condition now, meaning no broken parts, it will probably remain that way for a long time if used properly. The fence, the router table and the sliding table are probably a good $300-$400 in extras. If you can get the rest of the saw included for about that, bonus. I don't know about the arbor as TDKPE mentioned.  You can buy arbor spacers, although I have never used them myself.  I'm sure the current user has a blade on it. You can see what he is using.

If the price is something you are comfortable with, I'd give it a look no matter what.

[fredhargis]

I'd check that motor label carefully to see just what it has on it, but the advice above is golden. BTW, welcome! Glad you decided to step in!

[crokett™]

for the actual saw, check whether the rip fence and miter gauge slot are aligned with the blade. the rip fence will be easier to fix, since it should have adjustments on it. the miter slot you normally need to loosen the bolts on the table top and move it. at least that's how I adjusted a Delta and a PM 66. make sure height and tilt adjustment on the blade operate smoothly.

[Alan S]

With regard to the 3/4" arbor: you don't need to find or bore a 3/4" hole.  The much more common 1" bore can be fit with an inexpensive bushing.

[TDKPE]

I light of some of the above comments, I should amend my stated opinion to include the value of the Unifence (which is really nice), and the router table. I wasn't thinking about their value, just what I thought about a 40's-50's TS that's less than common. It looks well cared for, and if it's solid with no cracked elements, it's probably a keeper. If I was in the market, I'd go as high as (maybe) $500, in large part because of the extras. It also looks like there are blades included, from the pics, which is a start, even if they need sharpening and aren't worn to the nub. Hopefully throat plates for dado blades, too, but it's not hard to make your own.

[fishhh4]

I have a Davis & Wells ....Oliver badged  16 " , 5 hp 3 phase . Solid ... but very simple design . I paid a hundred  for mine on auction . After refurbing it .. I would need at least 800 for it . I plan on mounting a power feeder to mine .

   

   

[Christmastaco]

I would definitely ask about this saw over at OWWM.org. Just don't ask for a value. That is frowned upon there.

Sorry about that, didn't mean to offend. Getting up to speed on things and just wanted to get a sense of things.

To all, thanks for the info! I'll do some more research and will let you all know if I pull the trigger!

[TDKPE]

  It's not frowned upon here.  But it is one of the rules over at owwm.org.