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I am building a router table. What material is best for the top and fence, plywood or mdf? I plan to make it double thick. Thank you so very much on sharing your experience.
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MDF is Smooth but I would stay clear for a router table. I used two layers of Baltic birch.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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Phenolic plywood would be my choice.
John
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Mdf double layer glue and screwed, hardwood edge glued with biscuits or dominos, laminate top. Don't you watch Norm
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
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Both.
I never use MDF in anything I have to ever carry or move because it is heavy and prone to getting banged up. It is great because it is flat, cheap and super stable. I would do one layer of MDF and a top of Baltic Birch. No MDF in the fence all Baltic Birch.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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(02-06-2018, 10:05 PM)BloomingtonMike Wrote: Mdf double layer glue and screwed, hardwood edge glued with biscuits or dominos, laminate top. Don't you watch Norm
This!!! ^^^^^^^^
DT
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If you laminate 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and give it some support underneath, it will last a lifetime and stay flat as it was when you made it. I'm not sure I favor it as much for the fence, though it could work. I would go with hard maple in that case. But for the table top, laminate it with a high pressure laminate covering (Formica) on both sides and it will serve you well. It will be extremely heavy, so much so it won't need to be fastened to the cabinet. Just put some cleats on the underside to keep it from sliding around and you're good to go.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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(02-07-2018, 06:35 AM)fredhargis Wrote: If you laminate 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and give it some support underneath, it will last a lifetime and stay flat as it was when you made it. I'm not sure I favor it as much for the fence, though it could work. I would go with hard maple in that case. But for the table top, laminate it with a high pressure laminate covering (Formica) on both sides and it will serve you well. It will be extremely heavy, so much so it won't need to be fastened to the cabinet. Just put some cleats on the underside to keep it from sliding around and you're good to go.
Here was my "Norm" router table (actually a fellow WN'er now has possession of it)
Top was 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued together, plastic laminate on top and red oak edging.
Fence was made with MDO plywood and MDF faces.
Had this table for probably 15 years. Never had any issues.
"This is our chance, this our lives, this is our planet we're standing on. Use your choice, use your voice, you can save our tomorrows now." - eV
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+2 on the MDF. Edge with hardwood/laminate top AND bottom.
Word of caution: if you buy the MDF at a big box be sure it is not sagging in the rack.
Cut your top out as soon as you get it home and keep it on a flat surface!
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(02-07-2018, 08:25 AM)KLaz Wrote: Here was my "Norm" router table (actually a fellow WN'er now has possession of it)
Top was 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued together, plastic laminate on top and red oak edging.
Fence was made with MDO plywood and MDF faces.
Had this table for probably 15 years. Never had any issues.
I built a "Norm" router table back in the day, still have it. He spec'd 1" melamine for the top; hard to find but I did find it, and it is as flat as the day it was made.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
