(01-18-2018, 10:50 AM)handi Wrote: The lock miter is a great option but VERY fussy to get right without practice.
I NEVER try to rip long mitered on the TS, they simply do not work, even when I had a $40,000 sliding table saw in the shop I worked at.
I prefer to rip the meters on the saw, but leaving about 1/8” extra, then set up a 45 degree bit in the router table and mill the miter that way. Once set up, even if the board rises off the table or wanders away from the fence, you can simply pass it again to clean up any flaws.
To glue up, set the parts edge to edge and run packing tape along the joints. This will act as a hinge to fold the pedestal together. Carefully flip over the attached parts, add light glue, and fold the sides into a tube. Gently add clamps in both directions to hold while drying. Just snug them up at first, and tighten a little at a time to secure the joints without distorting them.
When cleaning up the dried assembly, do not try to sand the joints or fill and gaps. Run a smooth steel rod (a scraper burnished is excellent) down the joints rolling the sharp edges together. This will close small gaps and prevent sanding through the veneer exposing the ply.
Another method would be to simply build a butt jointed Box out of MDF or ply and veneer the entire thing.
The longest miter I made on the table saw was about counter height (34"??). It might have been beginners' luck, but it came out fine.
I did not use any clamps. I ran filament tape that would end up being around the girth and packing tape along the seams. I painted on the glue and folded it up. Checked for square and taped the final seam. No clamps. Everything turned out straight and true. I did tighten one seam by rubbing the shaft of a screw driver to make the sides touch. But overall it was easy and fast and satisfactorily strong. Unless the pedestal is going to be moved around a lot it is not going to be subject to much stress. It is like a picture frame in that regard. The miters on a commercial picture frame are just glued and pinned. They don't fall apart because not much stress is put on the joint.
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Well, has been a number of weeks but the project is nearly done - will do a wax coat tomorrow and bring to the Unitarian Fellowship early next week. The top and bottom are constructed similarly w/ oak plywood + dadoed solid oak miter surrounds; for contrast and to hide some dowels, decorative mahogany molding added (stained somewhat darker than the oak) - also, added about 6 pounds extra weight inside at the bottom for a much lower center of gravity - really resists being tipped over.
The finishing chosen was: 1) Shellac sealer (rattle can Bullseye); 2) General gel stain (mix of American oak & their 'cherry' version); 3) another coat of the same shellac sealer after a 2 day wait; 4) WB poly semi-gloss first coat; and 5) WB satin - 2 coats. Pleased w/ the project and should be a nice addition to the pulpit area. Dave
(02-10-2018, 05:43 PM)giradman Wrote: Well, has been a number of weeks but the project is nearly done - will do a wax coat tomorrow and bring to the Unitarian Fellowship early next week. The top and bottom are constructed similarly w/ oak plywood + dadoed solid oak miter surrounds; for contrast and to hide some dowels, decorative mahogany molding added (stained somewhat darker than the oak) - also, added about 6 pounds extra weight inside at the bottom for a much lower center of gravity - really resists being tipped over.
The finishing chosen was: 1) Shellac sealer (rattle can Bullseye); 2) General gel stain (mix of American oak & their 'cherry' version); 3) another coat of the same shellac sealer after a 2 day wait; 4) WB poly semi-gloss first coat; and 5) WB satin - 2 coats. Pleased w/ the project and should be a nice addition to the pulpit area. Dave
That looks very nice, Dave. I'm glad the lock miter joint worked for you. Good job!
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