How to attach hammer head to handle.

[Bob10]

Depending on the fit and intended use, wood wedges should suffice. Mahogany may well prove to be too soft though, the head will never stay tight if the wood fibers inside the head crush from use.

As an aside, if you weren't aware that is a copper-beryllium hammer head; used in the mining and gas industries because it is non sparking and quite durable. They are rather expensive to buy new.

Thanks for the bit of info I might have a couple of those hammers.  I have to check

[Bibliophile 13]

I would never glue a handle into a hammer head. Handles can last a long, long time, but they’ve got to be replaceable.

I’d start with a wooden wedge first and see how it goes. You can always add a metal wedge from the hardware store later.

Just make sure you have a true slot in the head, not just a thin kerf. It will make it a lot easier to drive the wedge in.

[s9plus20]

Well..... Its a done deal.

I ended up using a hickory handle that I already had. (purchased at the same time as the head).  Its a lot longer than what I had intentions of.  I'll use as is, choking up on the handle, until I find what length would be best, then cut it down.  Although it is thicker than what I wanted, this handle does fit my hand pretty good about mid way up.  I can always make it thinner if need be.

I decided to use 30 minute epoxy for the attachment.  I'm very happy with the result. It made for a VERY solid fit.  No voids, no worry about coming loose. 

I had a 2nd hammer head that needed a handle too, did that one at the same time.

Thanks for all the input.

[C. in Indy]

Very nice!   And, I think you culled some of the better-looking hickory to be had...  nice taste!

Chris

[Timberwolf]

Well..... Its a done deal.

I ended up using a hickory handle that I already had. (purchased at the same time as the head).  Its a lot longer than what I had intentions of.  I'll use as is, choking up on the handle, until I find what length would be best, then cut it down.  Although it is thicker than what I wanted, this handle does fit my hand pretty good about mid way up.  I can always make it thinner if need be.

I decided to use 30 minute epoxy for the attachment.  I'm very happy with the result. It made for a VERY solid fit.  No voids, no worry about coming loose. 

I had a 2nd hammer head that needed a handle too, did that one at the same time.

Thanks for all the input.

..................
Epoxy is a good choice...They won't be coming loose on their own. But if you do break a handle, you can heat the head to ~150* and punch the piece out of the head pretty easily. Just drill a 1/4" hole right through the wood first..

The wood is nice..I would give it a coat of thinned garnet shellac, then a couple applications of BLO.

[s9plus20]

Very nice!   And, I think you culled some of the better-looking hickory to be had...  nice taste!

Chris

Thanks!

I did go thru quite a few looking for these.

[s9plus20]

The wood is nice..I would give it a coat of thinned garnet shellac, then a couple applications of BLO.

I started another thread on the handle finish.  I was thinking BLO but wanted to get other opinions first.

I have never mixed my own shellac, nor used it much. Also I thought shellac was to be the final/surface coat, not used under something else. I suppose BLO isnt an outside coating but will penetrate the shellac.

This might be a good time to try some shellac.

Any suggestions on what to purchase and the cut to use? (I will probably go the Amazon route to save on shipping)

Frankie.

[Stwood_]

I had a 2nd hammer head that needed a handle too, did that one at the same time.

I have the same, small head. Wonder what the intended use for them was.
I made a handle for mine long ago.

   

[s9plus20]

I have the same, small head. Wonder what the intended use for them was.
I made a handle for mine long ago.

For small tack nails.  You can use the wedge part to start the short nails that you will be holding between your thumb and forefinger. The wedge part will go between your fingers, the head will not.

The squared off head will lay flat against the back of a picture frame allowing you to hammer in a staple to secure a picture in a frame.

[Timberwolf]

I started another thread on the handle finish.  I was thinking BLO but wanted to get other opinions first.

I have never mixed my own shellac, nor used it much.  Also I thought shellac was to be the final/surface coat, not used under something else.  I suppose BLO isnt an outside coating but will penetrate the shellac.

This might be a good time to try some shellac.

Any suggestions on what to purchase and the cut to use? (I will probably go the Amazon route to save on shipping)

Frankie.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I buy the Garnet flakes,,,,you might be able to get it on amazon...it wont take much and you can just make a small quantity at a time..I would cut it 4 to 1...It's really going to pop the grain and bring out a rich color....I also agree with Admiral..Tru-oil is an outstanding product..especially after applying it over a couple of coats of garnet shellac..The shellac seals all pores....I still have a Plains Rifle I made over 40yrs ago that I finished with Tru-oil..it's still looks great!!!!!!!! You can buy a small bottle of it at Walmart...Birchwood Casey is the brand. Once you use it you will be wanting to finish everything with it..Dries fast, you can apply two coats in one day..I just rub it in with my finger...like a French polish. Steel wool it for a satin finish if that's what you want...And their stock polishing compound works great also..You can buff it to a piano finish over the Tru-oil.