(02-26-2018, 10:41 PM)Phil S. Wrote: I find that when I stack blades with the tag board and plastic spacers I have, I can get slots of different widths depending on how tight I tighten the blade. My dado blades are all 1/8" thick except for one that's 1/16 and one 3/32". I'm not sure if all dado sets are similar, but it seems that the two outside blades with two chippers and a spacer would yield something not too far over 0.5" depending on the thickness of the spacer. 9/16" also should be 0.5625". I haave been thinking of getting a set of metal shims, but haven't got that done yet.
It seems you've ruled out everything except the spacer being too thin, either because it squeezed thinner, or for another reason. If you are looking for new shims, I recommend the magnetic ones.
02-27-2018, 06:32 PM (This post was last modified: 02-27-2018, 07:37 PM by Kizar_Sozay.)
(02-26-2018, 09:51 PM)Alan S Wrote: Is it possible the right and left blade got switched? That would make the corners a bit less sharp, and with at least some dado sets (I don't know about Freud) would make the cut narrower because the carbide is offset to the outside of the stack on the outside blades.
Been fiddling with this adding shims and sneaking up on what I want. Someone requested a pic of the jig and I've added pic and you can also see the present blade set up. Also included a pic of the material I milled from a 2 x 8-8. Been out messing with adding and taking shims out to the point I'm not sure whether I want to add or remove shims so I'm hanging it up for the day. The shims are steel as is the .065 spacer. I'm made enough to crush the spacer but don't think that's what happened.
As you can see the opening in the fence is considerably wider than the reference block. This was the result of the initial adjustments left and right in the fence.
I've used the dado set before for cutting tenons and making panel slots in rail and stile doors but these are my first box joints. The other applications didn't require any kind of precision setup like this. I've got a PC dovetail and box joint jig but opted for the TS setup. I almost wish I had done dovetails with the jig after all this futzing about because I thought I could do just a little bit better job.
This is why I only do Box joints with common set ups.
Most I do are either 1/4 or 3/8”. I have the Freud SBOX8 Box joint blades that can be set up at either dimension. Both set ups are always exact, and I made an aux miter fence for each. They attach to my gauge using machine screws and have cleats to ensure that they locate accurately every time. Takes me less than 5 minutes to set up and begin cutting either size.
For larger fingers I use my SuperDado set and never try to set up using shims, just the blades for common sizes. I also numbered the chippers to use the same ones when setting up. Makes things easier and more consistent.
03-01-2018, 07:52 PM (This post was last modified: 03-01-2018, 08:13 PM by Edwin Hackleman.)
(02-27-2018, 01:24 AM)Kizar_Sozay Wrote: Freud's video shows the flat side to the outside with the offset carbide turned into the path of the cut. Its a considerable offset and if I switched the blades to put the offset away from the cut it would be way off, maybe 1/8".
The set comes with spacers AND shims. the spacers are about as thick as a blade and the shims range from .004 up to about .013.
I have been using a Delta stacked dado set of blades for 20 years. No problems here:
These are about 1/4" box joints in cherry. I have built 1/2" and 5/8" wide box joints with the same stacked dado set. Your description of the Freud dado set sounds very similar to mine.
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
I quit fooling around with shims and the dial gauges when I remembered I have a PC Delta jig for box and dovetails. I dug it out, fastened it to the tabletop, found all the bits and accessories and got them all in one place. Now I just half to read the directions. Last time I used it was for half inch drawers and they were perfect so the set up should be close already. IF only I had a router for each bit.
(03-04-2018, 07:25 PM)Kizar_Sozay Wrote: I quit fooling around with shims and the dial gauges when I remembered I have a PC Delta jig for box and dovetails. I dug it out, fastened it to the tabletop, found all the bits and accessories and got them all in one place. Now I just half to read the directions. Last time I used it was for half inch drawers and they were perfect so the set up should be close already. IF only I had a router for each bit.
I have made this one and virtually all of my drawer boxes with dado box joints:
I doubt this drawer will ever come apart. Except for the ball bearing slides, it's all ash.
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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