Woodpeckers PRL router lift--help me out please
#7
I bought this one for my NYW router table build--everyone seems to think it's the best of the lot. And it IS a solid piece of gear.

My problem is the adjustment mechanism seems ill thought out. So I wonder if I'm just not getting it.

To raise the router to change bits, you use the long handle thing and turn it to engage. Now you can lift or lower the router to wherever you want it. then turning it back parallel with the plate releases it. Then you use the micro adjust to set the desired bit height.

My problem/complaint is that you can really get it very close hauling up or down with the big handle. For one thing, you have to stand over the lift to use it, so you're not level with the bit to see how high it is. Then, when you get it what seems reasonably close, you have to turn the tiny, uncomfortable thumb wheel about 1 million revolutions to move the bit any distance to speak of. I've taken to reaching under the top and turning the wheel by the underside, since there's more to grab. 

Is this how you other users set your bit height? Doesn't this bug you? I'm close to saying "bad call" and putting this thing on CL or ebay. 

Help!
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly!" Arthur 'Big Guy' Carlson
Reply
#8
You'll get better at eyeballing the rough height....took me a while.

Other option is to cut some scrap wood to nominal thicknesses, lay a correct sized piece close to the bit as a reference for your rough adjustment.

Ed
Reply
#9
Want to swap for a Prl V1 with the crank handles?


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

Reply
#10
(03-02-2018, 10:01 AM)BloomingtonMike Wrote: Want to swap for a  Prl V1 with the crank handles?

Maybe. I'm going to give it some more time and see if I can like it. The ergonomics are pretty crappy...
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly!" Arthur 'Big Guy' Carlson
Reply
#11
I don't have a fancy router table or lift system. Never found a need for all that. I just do what I've always done. Keep scraps from your project nearby for setups & sneak up on the cut. This system may take a little longer but in the end it's just as accurate.

IF I had a commercial shop then that would be different.
Reply
#12
(03-01-2018, 04:42 PM)Johnbro Wrote: My problem/complaint is that you can really get it very close hauling up or down with the big handle. For one thing, you have to stand over the lift to use it, so you're not level with the bit to see how high it is. Then, when you get it what seems reasonably close, you have to turn the tiny, uncomfortable thumb wheel about 1 million revolutions to move the bit any distance to speak of. I've taken to reaching under the top and turning the wheel by the underside, since there's more to grab. 

Is this how you other users set your bit height? Doesn't this bug you? I'm close to saying "bad call" and putting this thing on CL or ebay. 

Help!

I usually just drop to one knee when I am trying to get it close after mounting a bit and pushing it down to get it in the neighborhood.   It's pretty easy to eyeball it then and just bump the handle up or down a bit as a final rough adjustment.   Remove the handle, make a test cut and fine adjust as necessary.   I did this as well with the PRL1 crank style system and a cordless drill to get a rough adjustment.  The PRL2 took a little getting used to, but now I like it better than the PRL1 I used to use.

Dave
MKM - Master Kindling Maker
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.